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Is a plunger worth the trouble?

4K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  Bowjack 
#1 ·
I've been shooting my Warf from a Flipper II for a couple of months now using the plunger hole for an adjustable side plate. Are there significant benefits to installing a plunger?

Reading the setup instructions it looks almost nightmare-ish and I know what a struggle it was just to tune the adjustable side plate for centershot. Wondering what benefit I might see from installing a plunger and if it is that much more advantageous.....
 
#2 ·
Plunders are pretty simple. Instructions often are not. A plunger is like the fine tuning knob we used to have on TV's.....if you are old enough to remember bunny ears.

Anyway, you screw it in the distance necessary to set the correct center shot. There will be some sort of nut and set screw to lock it in place. There will be some arrangement (something you turn) to take pressure on and off the spring. Tighten it to put more pressure on (this provides more support for the arrow making it act stiffer), or loosen it to take pressure off (this provides less support to the arrow so that it will bend more -- acts softer). I use Beiter plungers because I like to adjust mine on the fly. I can move the arrow back and forth horizontally on the target by adjusting the stiffness of the plunger. A lot of stringwalkers like to do this to fine tune crawls. The rest is just tuning, and that can get as complicated as you like. As far as benefits, it is easier to get a good tune, you can adjust the tune to changes in your form, and you can easily adjust for arrow changes. I shoot different arrows out of the same bow. I change arrows during a FITA, which is legal. I can retune with just a plunger adjustment.

Between myself and others in my family, we have used a lot of plungers. Some are hard to figure out at first, but easy once someone shows you which knob does what. I think the AAE Master Plunger is the one that threw me for awhile.
 
#3 ·
I vaguely remember bunny ear antennas!

They can be double-edged. The extra adjustability they offer can be a problem if the screw(s) come loose or you are not familiar with using them. On bows that have Berger holes, I will use a plunger for reasons Hank mentioned. I don't often change arrows or my setup once I found what works, but sometimes it is nice to make a quick small tweak here and there if trying new broadheads or whatever. More often than not, I will go whole years without ever touching the plunger once I have it at the desired setting.
 
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#4 ·
Losing set screws is an issue. Got to check them and keep them tight. I finally went down to one of those special hardware stores that has everything. I took my risers, plungers, sights, etc. and put together a box of Allen head screws, set screws, etc., both imperial and metric. Funny thing, my screws stopped falling out as soon as I put the box together. Who says bows do not have a sense of humor.
 
#5 ·
I definitely remember rabbit ears! I also remember being my Dad's remote control and Lord help your behind if you spun that dial too fast!
Thanks for the replies/advice folks. I've also heard that a plunger may provide a little more forgiveness for minor release flaws, have you found that to be true?
 
#7 ·
Have stiff gimpy fingers so release issues are always present, perfect excuse along with poor eyesight, rotten form etc. However have consistent poor shooting.

Switched from a NAP CR Flipper to a Strickland Springy that sits on the end of a built in adjustable plunger.

Serious oopses now mostly remain on the backstop. Verification anecdotal?

Has anyone tried the blob glue that comes with the labels on pie/bread tins as a substitute for Loctite?
 
#8 ·
I fully admit to having regular poor releases! In my experience, a well-tuned plunger can and will provide a slightly more forgiving shot with a bad release. Too soft or too firm, and it will likely exaggerate a bad release. I often see plungers set to either extreme by novice archers who use it as a means to accommodate shafts either too stiff or weak. It can help you dial in a shaft that is slightly one way or the other, but it can't help as much as using the correct spine.
 
#9 ·
I have a machined riser cut beyond center and my arrows fly to the right (right hand shooter) . Could a plunger possibly help with this?

Doug
 
#16 ·
Part of your decision as to whether a plunger is worth using on your warf riser is knowing how much clearance there is to the centerline. Consider the following dimensions. My Beiter plunger spring button travels 0.220". A typical arrow has an OD of 0.290". If we take half the OD of the arrow 0.145" and add the full travel of the spring button 0.220" we have a total of 0.365". Folks will have different opinions about this but for me 3/8" (0.375") is the minimum for plunger use. Any less and I don't think you are getting the full range of travel of the button. In truth, more clearance is needed to make room for bigger arrows, and to prevent the arrow from touching and bouncing off the front edge of the riser during the initial bend of paradox. There are many hunting risers that are cut to 5/16" and many folks use plungers with them with stick on rests, adjustable striker plates, off the shelf and what not. I am not an expert on Warf risers, having only handled a couple of them. As I understand some do not have 5/16" clearance. Hope this helps.

Rasyad
 
#19 ·
Plungers and springies make tuning easier and more precise. But they can be a nuisance, snagging on things and vibrating loose in the car. So I have got my three recurves set up with stick on rests of three different kinds. You tune them with the foam spacers they come with, and your jackknife to trim the little tabs, if need be. They are cheap and reliable but I carry spares in my quiver, just in case. I have been able to eventually get excellent arrow flight from all three bows and various arrow setups. - lbg
 
#20 ·
There's not 3/8" clearance. Even with my less than optimal measuring tools it's just a little over 5/16" and definitely less than 3/8"....

I think I'll either continue with the Flipper II wire rest or use 2413gary's suggestion of re-installing and silencing the Springy with moleskin.
 
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