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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Still learning as I endlessly tweak my way down the garden path of ILF. Eventually I will go back to a wooden bow and put this happy madness behind me.

My present question relates to how the limb butt sits and rocks over the 'humps' in the limb pads of my ILF riser. It would seem to me with my limbs (here Nika N3, which have a pronounced pivot in the limb butts) that the apex of the pivot point should be sitting atop or nearer the humps/rockers (whatever they are called) on my F261 riser, closer to the button. Or am I missing something? My other more traditionally shaped ILF limbs are flat, and effectively have no such pivot point/belly in the limb butt.

They rock just fine as is, just wondering if it is standard. How are other N3 owners seeing it on their risers? As these limbs are similar in this aspect to some Uukha, perhaps this is a point of comparison also.

I hope the below images help illustrate my query.

Textile Sleeve Automotive tire Grey Pattern


Automotive exterior Bumper Grey Wood Blade


Sleeve Grey Automotive exterior Bumper Font
 

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The limbs having the radius type pivot is nice imo . In my experience it gives the limb more room to pivot when back out tiller bolts before hitting top or bottom of riser . As most know I worked with junxing in the f261 and it is my original optimus. The original version dovetails were flush with the riser and gave more room for tiller bolt adjustment before the limb dovetail would run out of room in the riser dovetail . I actually still have a bunch of those in my shop . I tried to get them to put the pivot directly in-line with the bushing on the limb but they already had these being made so went with it . It’s a solid system but moving the pivot back behind the dovetail on the limb won’t allow for as much adjustment out on the tiller bolts .
for shooting limbs maxed out it’s no big deal but if you back out more than 3 turns some limbs will lose contact with limb but under the tiller bolt head .
Still heck of a riser imo. But if you machine those humps off the dovetail it’ll lose about 1 pd but give ability to adjust bolts out further . Me personally I shoot all mine maxed out .

where those Nika are cut and contact the dovetail is where I’d prefer it personally . I prefer the contact point in line with the dovetail on the limb but I’ve learned over the years no 2 people like the same thing on ILF risers .lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The limbs having the radius type pivot is nice imo . In my experience it gives the limb more room to pivot when back out tiller bolts before hitting top or bottom of riser . As most know I worked with junxing in the f261 and it is my original optimus. The original version dovetails were flush with the riser and gave more room for tiller bolt adjustment before the limb dovetail would run out of room in the riser dovetail . I actually still have a bunch of those in my shop . I tried to get them to put the pivot directly in-line with the bushing on the limb but they already had these being made so went with it . It’s a solid system but moving the pivot back behind the dovetail on the limb won’t allow for as much adjustment out on the tiller bolts .
for shooting limbs maxed out it’s no big deal but if you back out more than 3 turns some limbs will lose contact with limb but under the tiller bolt head .
Still heck of a riser imo. But if you machine those humps off the dovetail it’ll lose about 1 pd but give ability to adjust bolts out further . Me personally I shoot all mine maxed out .

where those Nika are cut and contact the dovetail is where I’d prefer it personally . I prefer the contact point in line with the dovetail on the limb but I’ve learned over the years no 2 people like the same thing on ILF risers .lol
Wow, you helped design the F261? Nice job! It's a bloody masterpiece, chose it over the Satori. Aside from tiller bolts being painted rather than anodised, I cannot flaw it - nor get enough of shooting it. I've taken it into rough country, hard hikes, sub alpine and jungle. It's had shale falling onto it from 50m (few dings, that's all), muddy river crossings the works.

I am about to buy the 17" model, just to have it. Please let me know if you have some as Optimus with a solid matte paint job. I am not in the US though.

where those Nika are cut and contact the dovetail is where I’d prefer it personally . I prefer the contact point in line with the dovetail on the limb but I’ve learned over the years no 2 people like the same thing on ILF risers .lol
Mate I'll go with what you say on this. It definitely isn't broken, so doesn't need fixing. I run 1/8" positive tiller for split, don't need to wind the bolts out more and risk losing contact at the tiller bolt.

As I say it 'rocks' just fine even when I pull these limbs back to about 32, rolling onto the hump. Was just curious as to how it should be, also in case it makes problems later. You've explained it well.
 

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I believe a smaller contact area is quieter has higher psi of pressure on contact point. Stolid bull makes a little brass ridge on their risers and I believe that is the reason but I have never heard conversations about it. Tge stolid riser I had was nice and quiet
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I believe a smaller contact area is quieter has higher psi of pressure on contact point. Stolid bull makes a little brass ridge on their risers and I believe that is the reason but I have never heard conversations about it. Tge stolid riser I had was nice and quiet
Interesting. I was wondering about cumulative compression damage from a smaller contact area under pressure, but quietness I had not thought of. Makes much sense.
 

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Remote - got a picture of your limb pocket without limb? thanks. trying to visualize what your extra little riser thing is.
 

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Breathn, what is your opinion on Gobi compared to Nika N3? Is this a matter of personal preference for Curve vs S-Curve shape?

Any quality differences that might impact longevity/durability?
 

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OK, now I see your point & concern. It's not typical of what we're used to seeing. THANKS.
 
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Breathn, what is your opinion on Gobi compared to Nika N3? Is this a matter of personal preference for Curve vs S-Curve shape?

Any quality differences that might impact longevity/durability?
The Gobi being s curve are smoother on the back end . I’d compare the Nika to the evo limb Uukha made before but they are a little faster than the evo was . Great limbs for the money for sure
 

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Wow, you helped design the F261? Nice job! It's a bloody masterpiece, chose it over the Satori. Aside from tiller bolts being painted rather than anodised, I cannot flaw it - nor get enough of shooting it. I've taken it into rough country, hard hikes, sub alpine and jungle. It's had shale falling onto it from 50m (few dings, that's all), muddy river crossings the works.

I am about to buy the 17" model, just to have it. Please let me know if you have some as Optimus with a solid matte paint job. I am not in the US though.



Mate I'll go with what you say on this. It definitely isn't broken, so doesn't need fixing. I run 1/8" positive tiller for split, don't need to wind the bolts out more and risk losing contact at the tiller bolt.

As I say it 'rocks' just fine even when I pull these limbs back to about 32, rolling onto the hump. Was just curious as to how it should be, also in case it makes problems later. You've explained it well.
I’ve got 19 inch models but currently only have a lefty 17 inch .
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thank you. Are Nika faster than Gobi?
There was a chrono comparison by a Uukha shooter in China that implies the N3's are among the top Uukha's for speed. For some reason he chose higher poundage Uukha's and light N3's in his test, so yep 'implied'. Mediums seem faster. Great limbs, and super durable. But I guess this is getting off topic.
 
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