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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased a Hoyt Excel riser, and a pair of Black Max Short 45 lb limbs. The riser came with a leather rest glued on. I have gold tip traditionals both 3555 with 125 grain points, and 1535 with 145 grain points. The arrows were flying in in a big circle and hitting right about 12". I put a flipper rest on it and adjusted out til the arrows seemed to be flying well, until I put a broadhead on it and started wagging the dog. I would like to shoot off the shelf but I'm kind of at a loss on what adjustments to make. It has been several decades since I had a bow that I could adjust more than brace height and nock point. Here are a few pictures and I welcome all suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Draw length 26 1/2" to 27"
Arrows 30"

I know that the rest is too far left, but that is how far I had to move it out to get my arrows to hit where I had them gapping.

My question what should I be adjusting, and to get my shot lined up. I have 3 other bows 40 to 45 lbs and I am getting my arrows to fly just fine off the shelf without any build out from the side of the riser than a little Velcro. I'm missing something.
 

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Bart Harmeling
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I think you should use just one of your arrow combos to tune your bow. The 1535's seem to be more in the range of your bow's dynamic spine requirements. You'll likely need to move your rest in. I'd start with the point about 1/8" out from the center line when viewed from the belly side of the bow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, I've tried every arrow I own.
Gold tip 1535 traditional full length 145 grain field point
Gold tip 3555 traditional 30" length 125 grain field point
Beman ICS 340 30" length 125 grain field point
Easton Carbon One 600 spine with 90 grain field point

All are shooting to the right approximately 8"

In the picture of the rest you can see a worn spot after only one day of shooting because these arrows are pulling to the right so hard.

I've tried adjusting brace height from 8.5" TO 9.5"
nock point from 5/8 to 7/8

Rest out as far as you see in the picture (which is the only time arrows were
hitting where they were supposed to, until I put on a Zwicky Eskimo Lite 135 grain)
Shooting off the shelf and against the side of the riser.

Other than when the rest was that far out all my shots where grouping 8" to the right.

I got both my Bear Grizzly 40# and Samick Sages 40# and 45# and the gold tip 1535'sI where hitting right where I pointed in groups of 3 and 4 depending on how many I shot at 15 and 20 yards consistantly.

I am surprised that someone on here, since so many shoot the ILF rigs hasn't experienced this before.

I am at a loss on what adjustment to the bow would take care of this.

I'll email John Wert at Lancaster and see if he has any suggestions.:help:
 

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I start the bare shaft tuning process by adjusting my side plate, furniture pad in my case, to put the right side of the arrow touching the left side of the string when viewed from behind. Then I tune the arrow by point weight and length to shoot without tail right or left. Only after fletching would I make TINY side plate adjustments for impact but I usually don't have to do that.

In case of a hunting bow I start my tuning process with a field point approx. the weight of my broadhead, insert, and adapter up front and tune by arrow length from there. I always starting with full length arrows and prefer them 30-30.5" long. I'm using a variety of rests and side plates (rug, feather rest, furniture pads, leather side plate, etc.) on various bows and get excellent arrow flight and impact so the process must work. If I tune well with the correct weight field point my same weight BH shoot the same.
 

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Barebow recurve
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I found the NAP Centerest Flipper too thick to tune on an Excel riser. ILF target risers are pretty much designed for a magnetic or stick-on rest and plunger. You might have better luck with the NAP Centerest (non-flipper) or a stick-on rest with different adhesive pad thicknesses. Try the Hoyt Super Rest that came with the riser. A surprising number of medals have been won with that simple inexpensive rest.

Otherwise, furniture pads is probably the way to go.
 

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You mentioned wanting to shoot off the shelf, so I'd suggest starting over from there. Get your center shot set up as Reddog suggested and work from there. Set your nock (use two, one above, one below) a little high to start so you're not bouncing off the shelf and your brace height higher than you want to end up. If your arrows work in comparable setups, you should be able to get one of them to work in this rig.

I just went through this with a new rig I set up this weekend. Going way past center will give you some wacky results.
 
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I'm shooting a 21" with short BM Carbon woods at 42lb./27". I realize differences in form/release but I suggest the spine of your 35/55 at 30" 125/145gr is weak. My 35/55 at 28" 125gr. is still a touch weak .

I don't think I've ever seen a riser cut as far past center. A flipper rest looks odd stuck out there like a hitchhiker's thumb.

Also, check the limb alignment is center of the riser...or as Excels go....close.
 

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Starrider I experienced the same thing as you and it took lots of time adjusting from a sage (I had the journey) to the excel riser except I have axiom plus medium limbs that are set at 43lbs. I took a gold tip trad 3555 and had to cut it way down to about 28.25" (my draw length is 28") for it to tune properly so I experimented with some 5575's full length and 145g up front in order for them to tune correctly. I even had a full length pile driver .350 and that tuned with 250 up front. I am using the nap centerrest and it has the same groove but it hasn't changed much after a month or more. I also have it as far to the shelf as it goes. I was frustrated too like you seem but worked at it and finally got used to it and corrected whatever was happening.
 
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