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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

We shoot a little 3D over here where I am. Different scoring, etc. but loads of fun. Since I dialed-in here I've started to improve. I was stalled at 500 points (and a lot less) for a long time. Last autumn I moved from a 21" riser to a 25" riser, a little more practice maybe and I jumped forward 50 points. I've shot 560+ & 570+ in practice. I've shot 550+ twice in competition. I'm shooting the following gear:

* Left-hand Spigarelli BB Riser with low wrist Jager grip and Spigarelli Evolution 2 rest.
* I've fitted a simple 5" Doinker stabiliser to the riser plus one Spigarelli barebow weight in the bottom of the riser. I also use a Shibuya DX plunger.
* SF Elite+ short limbs 40# @ 28" (draw length is 27")
* GT Ultralight 600 spine shafts with 3 No. NAP QuikSpin vanes, 105 grain Tophat field points and a 15 grain GT insert.

I also shoot three fingers under, another tip I picked up here. Seems to works better for me than split. At shorter distances I seem to do best by gapping off the riser. I'm not sure if I'm doing it right but I've read some of Rusty's posts on the topic. I see a site picture with the target framed by the riser. On longer shoots I use the tip of the arrow. My point-on seems to be circa 35 yards. We shoot from 5 yards out to 60 yards, not many shots out past 40 yards.

I know I need to practice more :) (that's a fact) but can anyone suggest any equipment improvements, particularly regarding arrows? I'd like to reduce my overall arrow weight.

I'm thinking of getting some Kurly vanes and some of those skinny carbon shafts that I see others shooting out of their metal risers. I've only ever shot GT trad and Ultralight shafts. Their 500 spine shafts at full length seem to be too stiff, even with 140 grain point up front. The 600's seem to fly good with 105 grain points.

I'm prepared to invest some cash in new arrows but the choice seem endless. The GT's are so easy to assemble, change out points, etc. I guess I'm a little lazy but I'm (finally) prepared to make an effort at this stage. What arrows are you shooting for 3D? What total weight are you achieving? Please point me in the right direction ... What is the best 3D arrow out there? Opinions please. Also, any other 3D tips?

Finally thanks for all the great posts I read on this site. :cheers:

Regards, James.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Fun in the shed this evening ... three GT's thro' a little plastic ball at 12 yards. Point me at some skinny carbons so I can experiment in my 12-yard range :)
 

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Barefaced tightropewalker
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120 grain in the front of the arrow seems a little heavy to me. A lighter tip would allow you to use a lower spine and therefore lighter shaft..... gain-gain. But, then again maybe your PO is best where it is.
 
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I shoot Victory VAP .600`s out of my Spig BB with SF Ultimate Pro`s. 41#, and drawing 28.25" Mt Buddy has the same rig but draws 26.5", and uses VAP .700`s Both of us are using 80 grain glue in points. I have nothing but good stuff to say about the VAP`s.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Greysides if you were to speculate what arrow spine & point combo would you recommend? What shaft brand?

Regards, James.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Mitch I've a set of Ult Pro's at 40#. I had them on the Dalaa but I took them off. Thinking about trying them on the Spig.

What do you fletch the VAP's with? What's total arrow weight? I love to see a photo of one of those arrows ... :)

Regards, James.
 

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Barefaced tightropewalker
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Greysides if you were to speculate what arrow spine & point combo would you recommend? What shaft brand?

Regards, James.
Not really my area, I'll defer to those with more experience.

I had a 90 grain tip in mind. I like my Carbon Ones as a light, narrow, robust and cheap shaft but I've not experimented with others to be able to compare.
 
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Those quikspin vanes are heavy and very draggy.

The first thing I'd do is look at switching to Kurly Vanes. They are cheap, fairly durable and really easy to replace in the field. I use the 70mm ones on my GT Ultralight 600s.

Second thing I'd look at is switching to a lighter nock.

Third would be going down to a 80gr point. Chances are you can get the lighter points to tune just fine once you've dropped the 15gr off the back. You may need to wind the limbs in a little or soften the plunger but not much.
I actually like the Easton CB points best in GT arrows.

That is only a total cost of maybe 25GBP which will give you an idea as to whether a faster arrow will benefit you.

-Grant
 

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Pete
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X 2 on the curly vanes, working great for me at 3d and field. I use VAP 700,s out of my 38lb sprig/sf, ult pro and elite + limbs settups.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Pete, are you shooting full-length shafts? Do you know what your total arrow weight is?

Regards, James.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Rusty they seem to run from 40mm to 70mm ... Grant seems to use the 70mm. My current vanes are circa 50mm, I was thinking of getting the 50mm and starting the experimenting from there ... What shafts do you use with Kurly vanes? What arrow weight are you maxing out at?

Regards, James.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
29" and 245grains total. :luck:
Pete, that 245 grains is very interesting ... I'm over 320 grains from memory with full length (circa 30") GT Ultralights 600 spine shafts. What type insert,field point & nock are you using?

As an aside, I measured my draw length this evening ... its up to 29". This is a great surprise to me as it was circa 27" less than a year ago. Seems all these posts I read about proper form might be rubbing off ... I tried some of my older arrows that I'd cut to 27.75" and they fell off the back of the rest when I drew the bow ... well funny! :)

Regards, James.
 

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I'm shooting the 70mm because I want my field arrows to be forgiving and straighten out FAST for those 5m bunnies. They are perhaps 1gr total more weight.
You'd cry to see how crooked the bareshafts get on those close shots but the fletched are straight.

I could see running the 50mm on a skinnier arrow though.

-Grant
 
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Before you switch arrows I'd ask why you want something different? Are they dropping too much on farther shots or not performing in some way?

For 3D, especially courses where you shoot out past 40 yards, a nice flat shooting arrow can make a big difference. But, before switching you should evaluate if your current arrows are holding you back. Where do you drop the most points on typical courses? Close, medium, or long shots? A faster arrow may give you a little cushion on the farther shots but if you push the envelope of too light you may end up with a twitchy arrow.

That said, if you are looking for lighter skinny arrows I'm a fan of the Victory VAP. They are light, durable and shoot very well.
 

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If the shafts are impacting as straight as they appear to in your 12 yard group, I would be reluctant to change anything in your tackle.

It looks as if your good shots are very good.

I would consider working on yourself by trying to eliminate your bad shots. Don't take them. I coach from day one to feel the shot, and when you feel a bad one coming on, don't take it. Let down. Start over from the beginning. Maybe put your arrow in the quiver and step off the line.

It is not our good shots that hold us back. No bad shots. - lbg
 

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Pete
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Pete, that 245 grains is very interesting ... I'm over 320 grains from memory with full length (circa 30") GT Ultralights 600 spine shafts. What type insert,field point & nock are you using?

As an aside, I measured my draw length this evening ... its up to 29". This is a great surprise to me as it was circa 27" less than a year ago. Seems all these posts I read about proper form might be rubbing off ... I tried some of my older arrows that I'd cut to 27.75" and they fell off the back of the rest when I drew the bow ... well funny! :)

Regards, James.
James, 70 grain carbon1 glue in tip, slightly ground down to fit, VAP6 noc and 3x50mm or 70mm curly vane. This gives me 6.45gpbp and 11% foc. :cheers:
 
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