I have picked up grips on ebay, also check a local archery shop to see if they have any old stock laying around. I even found a wooden grip for my Proline warf, they use the same grip. You could also post a WTB in the trading blanket.
The Hoyt grip you seek should have a 2R stamped or cast in the plastic in the lower RH side of it.
3R and 4R are higher.
I think this is correct info.
I've found them on the auction site, and posted "wanted" ads in the classifieds and had good success there.
I've seen the grips on either the 3 Rivers or Lancaster web sites in the resent past.
You could try shooting without the grip and I've done so just to try it out with my own TD2.
I prefer the high grip myself, but believe a lower grip is easier and less tiring to shoot for most people I've spoken to.
Thanks guy's (I love this forum) shot it without the grip and really like it that way. When I took the grip off some of the paint came off with it, any recommendations for covering that short of repainting? Red Green suggested DUCT TAPE...any better options?
some folk like a secure nonslip grip, for them the sort of wrap used on tennis racquet handles probably works fine.
others make a build up of JB weld or an fibre or floc filled epoxy past that can be ground and sanded down to minimalist configuration then sanded smooth and painted.
To me the square flat surfaces of a naked riser do not feel secure. I prefer a grip that subtly causes me to place my hand consistently in the same location on each and every shot. I tend to shoot with my little and ring fingers curled under against the side of the grip, gripping with my thumb and first two fingers. I'd probably use several wraps placed to build up contours to facilitate that and soften the corners; with perhaps a few partial layers on the sides under them to aid in consistent placement of the key fingers. I could do this with minimal build up on the rearward face of the grip potion of the riser.