How to build up the shelf
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I just did a build-up using plumber's epoxy. Here's how I did it.
First thing, before removing my plunger, was to take a measurement of its position so I could duplicate how far out the strike plate needed built. Then, I put a layer of clear packing tape on the riser. Before mixing up the epoxy, I tried to visualize what I wanted the rest to look like when complete. Once the epoxy was mixed, I stuck a small chunk onto the tape-covered riser. From there, you have a little over two minutes to get the rough shape the way you like it. The epoxy will harden like a rock within 20-25 minutes so around the 20 minute mark, I pulled the tape and the roughly formed piece off of the riser.
Final shaping of the rest can be done with file, sandpaper, etc. I used a belt sander with good effect. After totally cured and shaped, I colored the gray epoxy with a black felt tip marker and used some silicone sealant to attach it to the riser lining up with the rear plunger hole. A couple strips of velcro finish things off. It took me a grand total of 45 minutes to accomplish. As you can see from the picture, the rest is about 1/4" high, putting the arrow down low close to the hand.
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First thing, before removing my plunger, was to take a measurement of its position so I could duplicate how far out the strike plate needed built. Then, I put a layer of clear packing tape on the riser. Before mixing up the epoxy, I tried to visualize what I wanted the rest to look like when complete. Once the epoxy was mixed, I stuck a small chunk onto the tape-covered riser. From there, you have a little over two minutes to get the rough shape the way you like it. The epoxy will harden like a rock within 20-25 minutes so around the 20 minute mark, I pulled the tape and the roughly formed piece off of the riser.
Final shaping of the rest can be done with file, sandpaper, etc. I used a belt sander with good effect. After totally cured and shaped, I colored the gray epoxy with a black felt tip marker and used some silicone sealant to attach it to the riser lining up with the rear plunger hole. A couple strips of velcro finish things off. It took me a grand total of 45 minutes to accomplish. As you can see from the picture, the rest is about 1/4" high, putting the arrow down low close to the hand.
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67 Posts
I little overkill but, the shelf was slanted . Sanded off paint and used JB weld to sqare it up and sanded to the height I wanted.http://[URL=http://s1246.photobucket.com/user/fatzboys/media/warfmakeover020_zps18aa1a15.jpg.html]
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418 Posts
Mike is correct. Furniture pads are a no-go with the new IBO rules. Can be no more than 1/8" of soft material.
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6,458 Posts
I used wood(2) pieces, one for shelf, one for side plate. Both were glued on with barge cement. It got tricky filing to tune the side plate, so I bought one of the Martin adjustable side plates. I cover both with loop side Velcro, but only (1) strip per the 1/8" ibo rule. Somebody on here recently used bondo and that stuff is a breeze to mold/work with, but not sure it meets the "wood" density ibo rule?
Would anyone be interested if I ordered a few feet of this:
http://www.extrude-a-trim.com/aluminum-extrusions/aluminum-bar-stock/half-oval/5
And finished it off in the mill in custom lengths?
I'm thinking product #IE2015
-Grant
http://www.extrude-a-trim.com/aluminum-extrusions/aluminum-bar-stock/half-oval/5
And finished it off in the mill in custom lengths?
I'm thinking product #IE2015
-Grant
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3,580 Posts
Grant,
exactly what I am looking for. I don't want to butcher up one of my Spig risers, but something like that would be perfect. Have you seen the shelf on a DAS Elite? That is what I am trying to accomplish on my Spig 650.
Ren,
I believe the Spig has quite a bit of radius between the shelf and the window, that might require some hand-fitting to get correct. unless you don't mind a little gap. I've never seen a DAS Elite in person but I've seen pictures of what you mean.
Actually since our last conversation about the Titan shelf I've been thinking more and more about how to make something along these lines. The extruded aluminum makes a lot of sense from a production standpoint. If I could find a way of also making a radius side-plate from the same extrusion which was adjustable then that would be even more useful.
Let me look into some pricing on that stuff and see what it would take.
I believe the Spig has quite a bit of radius between the shelf and the window, that might require some hand-fitting to get correct. unless you don't mind a little gap. I've never seen a DAS Elite in person but I've seen pictures of what you mean.
Actually since our last conversation about the Titan shelf I've been thinking more and more about how to make something along these lines. The extruded aluminum makes a lot of sense from a production standpoint. If I could find a way of also making a radius side-plate from the same extrusion which was adjustable then that would be even more useful.
Let me look into some pricing on that stuff and see what it would take.
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3,259 Posts
It is my understanding that as long as the pads are 1/8" thick or less, they are fine.
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3,259 Posts
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418 Posts
Here's the scoop from the IBO rules for the Trad Worlds recurve class:
Arrows shall be shot off the hand or shelf of the riser only. An arrow side plate (if used) may only extend one (1)
inch above the arrow. No soft materials that will assist or affect the paradox of the arrow may be used to build up the shelf or strike plate of the riser. Archers may use a hard material on the shelf or on the side of the riser under a hair or leather strip that does not exceed 1/8” thickness. The shelf may not be built up in a manner that will give the archer an advantage in terms of feather or vane clearance. The intent is that the shelf meets the
side of the riser (strike plate) so the built-up shelf may not be a pyramid that provides clearance and separation from the bow riser.
Arrows shall be shot off the hand or shelf of the riser only. An arrow side plate (if used) may only extend one (1)
inch above the arrow. No soft materials that will assist or affect the paradox of the arrow may be used to build up the shelf or strike plate of the riser. Archers may use a hard material on the shelf or on the side of the riser under a hair or leather strip that does not exceed 1/8” thickness. The shelf may not be built up in a manner that will give the archer an advantage in terms of feather or vane clearance. The intent is that the shelf meets the
side of the riser (strike plate) so the built-up shelf may not be a pyramid that provides clearance and separation from the bow riser.
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3,259 Posts
Acrylic 95A hardnesses. I can use 1/8" acrylic half rod bent to run up the side plate and cover with velcro. Makes no difference in my shot. arrow clears just fine. cock feather out.
Dan
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7,517 Posts
Here is what I did last night for bugs new riser.
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Strike plate is one of Gary's adjustable springies that I attached a washer to and covered with Velcro - I'm going to need to inlet the riser to get center shot closer.
Shelf is epoxy putty - first covered the riser with packing tape - formed the shelf and let it harden. Then removed it and removed the tape - glued it back on using contact cement. Leather pad is a strip of an old tab.
Still needs a little work but it's pretty slick.
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Team Montana - we are coming for your quarters ;-)
Strike plate is one of Gary's adjustable springies that I attached a washer to and covered with Velcro - I'm going to need to inlet the riser to get center shot closer.
Shelf is epoxy putty - first covered the riser with packing tape - formed the shelf and let it harden. Then removed it and removed the tape - glued it back on using contact cement. Leather pad is a strip of an old tab.
Still needs a little work but it's pretty slick.
---------------------------------------------------
Team Montana - we are coming for your quarters ;-)
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3,580 Posts
I guess that's a special part of the Trad Worlds, as I cannot find the bolded in the IBO rules. ???
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