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There is no more on the subject? Looks like your way nock high and probably string walk with a low hold on the string?

What is your limb tiller top and bottom?:sbrug:
 

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I'm always interested in ideas or different approaches.... but I don't understand what your point is.
Oh, I read your other post and now I see. You tune to hit a point, not tune for best flight, and the pic shows the location that accomplished your intentions. Interesting
 

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I would really like to hear more. I saw you post on face book and reposted the above pics here to see if anyone new what your method was.

Moore info please
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Rusty, I basically want to shoot arrows, so I tend to do the minimum of tuning to get decent results. A great British archer said there wasn't much in the way of tiller problems that couldn't be sorted by nocking point height. I shoot target at present so indoors for me is either 20yards or 18m. Outdoors is 100yds/90m, 80yds/70m, 60yds/50m, 30m. So outdoors the bow is going to be out of tune some of the time. When I went barebow a year ago, I think the tiller was about zero. The limbs bolts were screwed all the way in and taken out by 2 turns. This was to get point on at the longest distance, with my lighter 800 spine arrows. I would aim 9 oclock on the edge of the target, due to the pressure button being set for my 620 spined arrows. The NP up to then was fairly conventional. 90m and 70m are shot split fingered, with the bow being set for 70m, with the heavier arrows. This meant that for 2 distances the bow was reasonably in tune, with 50m being 3 under one stitch down, and 30m being 7 stitches down. Good arrow flight till I got to 30m. Went indoors and at 20yds and a 13 stitch crawl (2.25in) the bow was pretty noisy with bad arrow flight, shooting with my outdoor string. That was when I decided to tune the NP to the string walk. I did not want to have the hassle of messing with the limb bolts as I was happy with the way the bow was shooting outdoors. So at 9m I shot fletched and an unfletched with the 13 stitch crawl, and moved the NP up till they landed together. The pressure button was the one I was using outdoors. The arrow was just outside centre shot. Then button spring pressure was used to bring the arrows onto the gold. That is the picture of the NP. The bow is quiet and forgiving.

So now we are back outside again, I will be setting up an extra string, NP set to a 3 stitch crawl, for the 2 shorter distances, to see if that improves accuracy. From 70m to 30m it's point on gold, at 90m I aim off a bit as my arrows are a weaker spine.

To my way of thinking, instead of moving limb bolts to correct tiller, just to keep the same NP, I change the NP so that the NP travels in the right direction to drive the arrow. I have no problems with arrow contact, good arrow flight, bow fairly quiet, and if the tips wobble a bit, the arrow has already gone. For a dozen arrows on an 80cm face at 50m, I am shooting 90 plus with one dozen getting 100. At 70m on a 122cm face, I am around the 90 mark. These target faces are standard for a Gents FITA round. If I have missed anything, just ask. Hope this helps, and thanks for reading.
Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just shot a Short Metric (3doz at 50m and 3doz at 30m on an 80cm face). Scored 552, using the string I shoot 90/70m with. Scored 265 at 50m but my 3 score was only 287. The nocking point was way out at my 30m 8 stitch crawl so will try the round again with a string tuned to a 4 stitch crawl. Doug
 

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I am assuming that you aim with the tip of the arrow and as you say it crawl down the string. There maybe another way to crawl back up the shaft or at your anchor. Please explain detuning your bow if preferred.
DDD
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi DDD, yes I put the point of the arrow on the gold to aim. Sorry, I'm not sure about the rest of your questions, could you clarify. Doug
 

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Hi DDD, yes I put the point of the arrow on the gold to aim. Sorry, I'm not sure about the rest of your questions, could you clarify. Doug
There are other method of aiming, why did you choose the one that you detune your bow. Wouldn't it be best to keep a good tune and choose a different aiming method.
DDD
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I chose string walking because I think it is the most accurate. The reason I will tune my new strings nocking point for a 4 stitch crawl is for good arrow flight with a bareshaft impacting in the same group as fletched arrows. For the best tune, it would really require a string for each distance, so the nocking point is the correct height. I certainly dont detune the bow, i just adjust the nocking point to allow for tiller. Its all about getting the nock to travel in the correct path to drive the arrow. Tiller isnt an issue.
 
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