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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hope this is the right forum to post this. Just wanted to say, hi. I’m just getting started with archery. I bought a Tigershark Pro. Haven’t had a chance to shoot it yet, but I’m itching to. I’m looking forward to soaking up the good information here.
 

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You are in the right place. There is no subforum for introductions here. Welcome to the forum.

Do you have the other stuff you need to begin shooting?
The basics just to start shooting include:
Tab, arm guard, suitable arrows, stringer, some sort of quiver (could even be a ground quiver). You can use a ruler instead of a bow square.
Whether you need a target depends on where you plan to shoot.
You can get much of this stuff for a pretty economical price.
Post with any questions you have about getting started.
Have you checked on a local teaching program? Depending on where you live, there might be parks or archery stores that have group lessons. It is a good way to start.
You may want to post the weight of your bow, the type of arrows you are using (there is a spine number on them that is important) and what you think your draw length is.
If you don't know your draw length then your height is a reasonable substitute.
Also, if you identify the area you live in there may be folks that can direct you to local resources for help.
 

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I own a Southwest Archery Spyder and three set of limbs 35, 40 and 45 pounds. I think that they make very nice bows.

The only thing I would suggest is to replace your string after the factory one wears out and get a better bow stringer, as the one that they sell is cheaply made.

Learn to use a stringer properly. Using a stringer only takes a moment and teaches you to inspect the bow and string prior to and after shooting. This is a good habit to get into.

As you start shooting you will learn what you like, what works for you and more importantly, what does not work for you. The most important thing that you will learn is that what works for me may not work for you and thats ok.

Traditional archery is very personal. Shooting a traditional bow is a marathon, not a sprint. When it all comes together, it is very rewarding.
 

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I hope this is the right forum to post this. Just wanted to say, hi. I’m just getting started with archery. I bought a Tigershark Pro. Haven’t had a chance to shoot it yet, but I’m itching to. I’m looking forward to soaking up the good information here.
====================
Hello Kbrede and welcome
My suggestion to new started shooters. Is buy a arm guard Till you learn proper bow hand placement. Again welcome [ Laer
 

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there'll be some on here that will try to get youj into 25" Olympic ILF risers & extra long limbs.
Some will try to get you into longbows.
Some will try to tell you that you should be shooting a 13" ILF riser and short limbs.
others will steer you into expensive bolt-down 3 piece bows.
Someone will tell you metal risers are the best.
Couple of folks will tell you wood is the way to go.
I will tell you WARFS are the bomb and DAS is the best. I will tell you ILF longbow limbs RULE. I will tell you super curves re not for me.
Some folks run extra longs, some like extra shorts, some want ONLY "conventional" profile ILF limbs, still others say they will only shoot ILF "super curves".
these are some of the things you will be forced to OR lucky to del with, as these decisions are some of the fun of the entire project.
Do not be afraid to try stuff, you are not getting into this to save money, and if you re careful with purchases to SOME degree, at the end of the year looking back, it was a lot of fun, AND A TON CHEAPER than a few expensive things people get into.......haha.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You are in the right place. There is no subforum for introductions here. Welcome to the forum.

Do you have the other stuff you need to begin shooting?
The basics just to start shooting include:
Tab, arm guard, suitable arrows, stringer, some sort of quiver (could even be a ground quiver). You can use a ruler instead of a bow square.
Whether you need a target depends on where you plan to shoot.
You can get much of this stuff for a pretty economical price.
Post with any questions you have about getting started.
Have you checked on a local teaching program? Depending on where you live, there might be parks or archery stores that have group lessons. It is a good way to start.
You may want to post the weight of your bow, the type of arrows you are using (there is a spine number on them that is important) and what you think your draw length is.
If you don't know your draw length then your height is a reasonable substitute.
Also, if you identify the area you live in there may be folks that can direct you to local resources for help.
I have everything but the quiver and square.

I took one lesson before I bought my bow. The main purpose was to determine starting weight and which hand to go with, since I’m cross eye dominate.

I’m starting with 25# limbs and have 30# to step up to. I bought some Feetwood 600 arrows that are 30.25” long with 100 grain tips. My draw length using the wingspan divided by 2.5 formula is 28”.
 

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You might have noticed the discussion going on recently about cross eye dominance. I too, am cross eye dominate and shoot with my eye dominance.

For now, you can use a ruler instead of a bow square. The purpose is to ensure that you maintain the correct brace height of your bow.

In case you were not told, that is the distance from the grip to the string. The string will often stretch, untwist, or both, which will make it longer and decrease the brace height.

You fix it by adding twists to make the string shorter and raise the brace height.

No maintaining the proper brace height is something I have commonly seen in new shooters. You can tell when you see a bow that is very flat.

I ended up making a card with the standard brace heights for different length bows so I could help folks out.

There are inexpensive quivers you can attach to a belt. You can also get ground quivers if you do most of your shooting outdoors. Neither is very costly.

You can always spend more. They can get fairly pricey, but it is a good idea to start cheap and simple until you learn what type of quiver you like.

I am tall and have very long arrows. I found that my arrows would fall out of my hip quiver when I bent over to pick them up. I ended up getting a quiver with magnets on the bottom to hold my arrows.

There is often some special requirement that makes the decision easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You might have noticed the discussion going on recently about cross eye dominance. I too, am cross eye dominate and shoot with my eye dominance.

For now, you can use a ruler instead of a bow square. The purpose is to ensure that you maintain the correct brace height of your bow.

In case you were not told, that is the distance from the grip to the string. The string will often stretch, untwist, or both, which will make it longer and decrease the brace height.

You fix it by adding twists to make the string shorter and raise the brace height.

No maintaining the proper brace height is something I have commonly seen in new shooters. You can tell when you see a bow that is very flat.

I ended up making a card with the standard brace heights for different length bows so I could help folks out.

There are inexpensive quivers you can attach to a belt. You can also get ground quivers if you do most of your shooting outdoors. Neither is very costly.

You can always spend more. They can get fairly pricey, but it is a good idea to start cheap and simple until you learn what type of quiver you like.

I am tall and have very long arrows. I found that my arrows would fall out of my hip quiver when I bent over to pick them up. I ended up getting a quiver with magnets on the bottom to hold my arrows.

There is often some special requirement that makes the decision easier.
Thanks for the tips. Looks like my brace height is a 1/4 inch from being out of spec on the long end. It’s at 8.25” and the manual says it shouldn’t be over 8.5”.
 

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Thanks for the tips. Looks like my brace height is a 1/4 inch from being out of spec on the long end. It’s at 8.25” and the manual says it shouldn’t be over 8.5”.
Don't stress about hitting some particular number for brace height. Lots of very good shooters run beyond the long end of the recommendations.
 
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