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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am very sensitive to grips and have gravitated towards a low flat grip for my hunting bows. This choice while feeling good/repeatable at draw leads to the bow rotating into my arm on release. I only notice this when shooting other grips. Such as my stock bb grip. While it feels horrible to me as I do not feel like Ive got anything to push against. It does though give me a shot reaction where the bow rotates slightly away at the shot. Leading to a bit more clearance of clothes and such.
Ive got a 25” xceed coming, to make a 70” bow to start getting a bit more serious about competing barebow. While the rcore kteenos has been my go to. I am wondering what others lean towards with bows they string walk? Seems most other grip options are either built up slightly on the shelf side or completely parallel. While I am thinking maybe a slight build up of the outboard side may lend itself to that clearance I get while shooting other grips.
Coach doesnt like my grip choices in the kteenos and Kaminski bb grips. And says that that amount of surface area to push on can/will lead to potential torque…. Idk, I think I need to go to modding one of the stock hoyts to test out my thinking. In the mean time Id be interested to hear how others are addressing their grips on target/string walking specific set ups.
 

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Matt
Take this with a grain of salt since I don’t string walk, grips are very personal, it’s how you connect to the bow, and how you connect to the bow isn’t the same as mine or anyone else’s, different hands and sizes bone structure and so on.
my go to grip is also the kteenos, love that grip. Second is the standard.
one that I have been playing with is the bumblebee and it’s a slimmer more (hoyt) like grip, saying this I mean a standard round 80-90’s grip that is a mass produced grip that all manufacturers used with the rounded palm/no life line.
Rcore will put a ridge on the bumblebee if you choose.
what I get from all grips like the jager 2.0, R-core kteenos is they train you to position your hand on the draw and shot. Once you know your hand position and connection you shoot all bows/grip the same way.
I can see how if you have a 2” crawl it will put more pressure on the heel of the grip and possibly inducing torque.
im no pro, not a coach just an archer that thinks the grip is one of the most important parts of your equipment, it’s where you connect to the bow, second is the tab/string.
good subject I look forward to hearing everyone eases input and learning from it.

Chad
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A
Matt
Take this with a grain of salt since I don’t string walk, grips are very personal, it’s how you connect to the bow, and how you connect to the bow isn’t the same as mine or anyone else’s, different hands and sizes bone structure and so on.
my go to grip is also the kteenos, love that grip. Second is the standard.
one that I have been playing with is the bumblebee and it’s a slimmer more (hoyt) like grip, saying this I mean a standard round 80-90’s grip that is a mass produced grip that all manufacturers used with the rounded palm/no life line.
Rcore will put a ridge on the bumblebee if you choose.
what I get from all grips like the jager 2.0, R-core kteenos is they train you to position your hand on the draw and shot. Once you know your hand position and connection you shoot all bows/grip the same way.
I can see how if you have a 2” crawl it will put more pressure on the heel of the grip and possibly inducing torque.
im no pro, not a coach just an archer that thinks the grip is one of the most important parts of your equipment, it’s where you connect to the bow, second is the tab/string.
good subject I look forward to hearing everyone eases input and learning from it.

Chad
Im glad they send two grips with the xceed so I can screw around with my thinkin some.
Those 80s style grips are really awkward for me. I do like that post shot reaction though. Hoping I can create that while maintaining a solid surface to push on. May just take a little sugru to my kteenos on the tempest this weekend and see.
This string walking tall bow thing is going to be an all new experience. Very excited to learn it.
 

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I prefer fairly high grips with narrow throat, wider palm which I use to set hand position but do NOT out pressure into.
That last point is very important since pressuring the palm can really mess with a string walking tune.
Also I like the thumb side top of the grip to position the thumb lower than the index to set my elbow position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I prefer fairly high grips with narrow throat, wider palm which I use to set hand position but do NOT out pressure into.
That last point is very important since pressuring the palm can really mess with a string walking tune.
Also I like the thumb side top of the grip to position the thumb lower than the index to set my elbow position.
This has been my biggest gripe with most stock wood bow grips and the “thumb rests” they raise your thumb knuckle high or on the same plane.
What you are speaking of is exactly what my coach speaks of. I have such a hard time comprehending not pushing with the flat below my thumb/keeping a strong bow side. Something I think I may need to work on.
 

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I got a rcore master compound low for my Xceed and still shaved it down more. Grips are personal not everyone likes the same. Best recomend doing some grip building and play around until you find that one shape you like and find it consistently.
 

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This has been my biggest gripe with most stock wood bow grips and the “thumb rests” they raise your thumb knuckle high or on the same plane.
What you are speaking of is exactly what my coach speaks of. I have such a hard time comprehending not pushing with the flat below my thumb/keeping a strong bow side. Something I think I may need to work on.
Changing to a linear draw completely reset how I address my grip and allowed me to move away from heeling the bow. Because of that my string walking tunes have never been better.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Changing to a linear draw completely reset how I address my grip and allowed me to move away from heeling the bow. Because of that my string walking tunes have never been better.
I think I mispoke. My coach has me set up with an angular draw and rotate on to target. But he does speak of the torque potential of having more heel in the grip.
I need to build an more stepped shot process now that Ill have some lighter limbs. So I can understand my process better or build a process.
I absolutely have an angular draw from what I see on video. I just do not recognize the separation from 1-2 in anchor. Seems like maybe Im a bit mixed up as I draw into my anchor but am rotating out and in and using the swing of my shoulders to get into alignment.
Very interested in your shot process.
As what drove you to switch to a linear draw?
Do you trap the string in front of your face olympic style?
Id love to make that work. With a lower anchor and string in front I feel rock solid at draw. But have a ridiculous point on in doing so and see noone beyond Kaminski ddoing anything similar. Even he gets the string to the side but ddoes utilize my favored anchor.
Doesnt work at all for my hunting bows(all Ive shot).
I think I may build out one of the hoyt stock grips to play with more of a higher wrist and pressure in the web to give it a fair shot. As my current preference demands a large surface area. The potential there for torque is pretty apparent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I got a rcore master compound low for my Xceed and still shaved it down more. Grips are personal not everyone likes the same. Best recomend doing some grip building and play around until you find that one shape you like and find it consistently.
Id like to try the master here soon. I fell head over heels for the kteenos a few years ago and just instinctively order that for every bow
 

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I shot a horizontal angular draw for years, always struggling with front end issues.

Linear should actually be called vertical rotation. It's closer to the traditional asian draw. For me it was night and day difference in terms of stability and ease of repeatability, especially with a higher anchor.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Matt, I use the Master and I really like it, I put it on everything I can.
I think if the kteenos, stock hoyt leave me wanting Im going to order a master low and a cearus or i am barebow low.
If I understand correctly my kteenos from the tempest should mount up to the xceed so I go at least one option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I shot a horizontal angular draw for years, always struggling with front end issues.

Linear should actually be called vertical rotation. It's closer to the traditional asian draw. For me it was night and day difference in terms of stability and ease of repeatability, especially with a higher anchor.
So draw hand rotating dow/up into anchor rather than in to anchor?
 

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So draw hand rotating dow/up into anchor rather than in to anchor?
Rotating down, forearm always in line with the grip pressure and arrow always points at the target (which isn't possible with a horizontal rotation).

For me it's a revelation.
 
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Grant explain if you would rotating down ?
Are you drawing straight back under the chin then rising your draw hand to anchor position?
My hand never goes below my anchor (which is index to behind upper canine), it arrives from above.
 
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