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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got this Hoyt Pro Vantage that I put Martin recurve limbs on and it has been a fantastic shooter. I called it a mutt bow.
However, a couple shoots into the winter league, I felt like I was struggling to hold the bow up, in the second half, so I decided to switch and shoot my Black Hawk, Short Bee.
I really liked the way the mutt shoots, because it is so smooth and has no stack. I didn't want to give up on it because of being too heavy so I decide to put it on a diet.
Like any good diet plan, initial weigh in was needed. Wow, 36 ounces; that's well over 2 pounds for a stripped down riser.
These risers are built like a tank and my lofty goal was to cut half the weight off.
I used blue painters tape to draw out some lines for cut-outs.
The following will be updates as the ounces just melt away.
 

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me too Marty BOLD MOVE cutting into a good shooter I's a big chicken
 

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That's already very light. The issue is technique, not excess mass.
For a ~35# bow total mass of near 6# is not excessive, I'm guessing you are half that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Part 2:
The first set of carve outs did not shed as much as hoped; however, light was shed by setting flame to a tiny chunk of the material....yep, that's magnesium alright. (The entire back yard was well lit.)
 

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I repeat: I's a big chicken. small town school English class....in the late 1950s
Riser is looking pretty athletic now.
 

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cuttin' big holes outta risers. I LIKE WHAT YOU have done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Please be careful with the Provantage. They had cracked and broken in half numerous times during their life as compounds. Are you planning on shooting very light limbs?
Ah yes, I forgot to mention; as I carve out pieces, I occasionally will support the limb pockets on 4x4 wood cribbing and stand on the rier at the grip. I'm 200lbs and I even do a little bounce in an effort to break it. No, sounds so far.
I'm also watching very closely for any voids in the casting. Those would end the project right there.
I'm putting 45# recurve limbs on this. So if my 200# butt doesn’t break it, we should be good...for he first shot, anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Part 3.
Catching up on the latest.
It took some serious paint stripper...almost a half a quart can of Aircraft Remover, but it finally came clean. I don't know what Hoyt used but it's some kind of plastic base coat, then camo on that. That was the toughest paint I have ever peeled off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Mister, then what does it get for new colors?
So, one sunny day, while sitting in the den, the prism in the window was throwing a nice rainbox on the desk.
I have been a lifelong fan of rainbows (a symbol of God's promise to never destroy by a flood) (not the symbol twisted minds)
Anywho the prism was casting light on the desk and I put the riser in it.
Very cool effect. Then I remembered a paint Ford used years ago called Mysique. It looked like a rainow in sunlight and flip-flopped as you moved around the car. Well, there is an automotive paint called Prism. It's really kewl looking. But honestly, I haven't decided on a color yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So in the early 2000s Duplicolor (I think) came out with a line of rattle can paint called Mirage. I remember 4 different ones. There were the kewlest flip-flop paint in a can. I did a motorcycle tank and plastic in a Ruby/Jade. In sunlight it was a gorgeous Jade green. But if you took a flash photo, it was Ruby red. And when the sun went down, it got jet black. It was also difficult to tell where the surface was. Just about everybody would reach out with a finger, just to figure out where the painted surface was at. Weird paint and long since gone.
This photo is what it looked like.
 

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