[FernKrieger]

I am very new to archery. I recently got a Martin XR Recurve (20#) and the 3 arrows included to practice with. I tried the little arrow rest that came with it but it flew off; it was terribly flimsy anyway. Now I shoot off the shelf, but gradually the bottom feather parts of the arrows come off. Is it the arrows or just me not knowing how to shoot them?

 

[kenn1320]

Could be wrong arrows for your setup, or nock height incorrect, or your release. I see you posted 20#, is that at 28" or at your draw length? What is your draw length? What size/spine arrows are you shooting, and what length are they? What is the tip/point weight? I don't want to overwhelm you, but this is the sort of information needed to get the proper set up.

 

[DJTJR]

If it came with a rest did the aw wows come with feathers or vanes plastic? You can shoot plastic off of a rest but not really off the shelf

 

[jerbearyukon]

Your bow is too fast

You have to look at your spine.....if it's too stiff it won't bend around the riser. Shoot with a rest if you want to tune easier but it's possible to tune it so that doesn't happen.

jer

 

[j.conner]

Also, not all shelves are designed to be shot off of. If not radiused, it would be best to add something that is. I would use a rest as it will be easier to tune and not destroy feathers.

We need to know the following to tell if your arrows are right for the bow:

*Draw weight
*Draw length
*Brace height
*Arrow type and spine
*Arrow length
*Arrow point weight

 

[FernKrieger]

No idea about the arrows, they are not a brand name really they came with the bow... They are wood with plastic feathers, and I think they are 29"
Also don't know what brace height means..
My draw length is about 28"; seems like I may be overdrawing that bow.. I used a small one just to see if I liked archery and I do :3 but I have no idea how I'm going to get a rest on there

 

[DaveV]

The side of the riser has a solid section does it not? Okay, I looked closer. It's not exactly solid, but that's where the rest goes. It's designed for a stick-on rest to be mounted there. It's really only a kid's bow and not to be taken seriously, so you may not find very many options for fine tuning it. I've seen rests shaped to fit that space, but not in many years. If I find it, I'll let you know.

EDIT: I found one photo of an old bow with the rest I had in mind. Maybe someone here will recognize it.

 

[kenn1320]

I see now, your arrows have plastic feathers, those are better known as vanes. They also make real feathers, but since your bow has a rest you can shoot the arrows with vanes. Something else interesting is the bow can be switched to shoot left or right hand. Are you shooting it set up for other hand? Lastly how old are you and your height? Reason I ask is that is a youth bow at 46" overal length, and if you have a 28" draw or longer, it's going to be hard to shoot. I'm glad your enjoying archery, let's get some more details and get you on the right track. Also when viewed from the side, is the arrow appear to be level or perpendicular to the string, or angled a lot? You could have the string on upside down. Can you post a pic of bow with the arrow on it?

 

[FernKrieger]

The plastic pieces aren't like solid vanes though. They are like real feathers but just plastic

I just turned 17 and am 5'3"; long arms in proportion to the rest of my body. (27.2" Draw Length)
This bow is for kids but I wanted something cheap and I didn't see the PSE bow that was more my size or I would have gotten that
I shoot right-handed, the way the bow was set up when it came.
I do believe the string is the right way, because the serving is positioned where it should be. The arrow is perfectly perpendicular and I cannot post a picture at this moment but when I get back home in the next few days I will

 

[DaveV]

Knowing what you have, I wouldn't worry too much about it. As you have already learned, vanes aren't that good for "off the shelf" shooting without a rest. Next time buy arrows with feather fletching if you can't find a rest that works.

Trying to custom tune arrows for a bow of that draw weight could cost you more than the entire bow package. Just shoot and have fun with it until you can afford something better.

 

[FernKrieger]

I was looking at the Martin Jaguar... But I can't afford that until maybe 6 months or more... And I'm down to one arrow with 2 1/2 feathers on it :3 impossible to test precision with one arrow really. I bought some cheap arrows with vanes and they fly down instead of straight, and all have broken vanes now. Would the PSE Snake be an ok bow? Or should I just use this one and hope all the arrows I buy don't shred feathers off?

 

[DaveV]

I actually like the Snake. Since it has a solid riser section, if a rest comes off it's easily replaced with a standard stick on rest.

Again, buying super tiny and light arrows for that light of draw weight will easily exceed the price of the bow. Just for durability and learning, go with something like the Genesis pre-made arrows. They're stiffer than necessary, but are rather bullet proof for learning. The plastic vanes may need to be reglued on occasion though, but that's no big deal. They use Easton press in nocks which are easily replaced without tools. Otherwise you'll need a rather delicate, thin arrow and probably have to make them up yourself, again at probably more cost than the bow.

Once you get a bow with poundage 25# and above, the possibilities open up and you will have many more choices.

If you can save up for something like the Samick Sage at about $110 you'll be a lot happier in the long run.

 

[DaveV]

You say the arrows "fly down"

Do you have a nocking point on the string? Did you change it when you lost the rest? Having the arrow now an inch or so lower would definitely make them fly strange.

You asked about brace height, so I'm going to assume you're not that familiar with setting nock height either. There are several good tutorials that will guide you in the proper setup of your bow. The more you learn on your own will help you ask better questions, and the better we can address the fine details for you.

 

[FernKrieger]

I don't have a nocking point, I just nock arrows so they are flat with the shelf... and the arrows that came with the bow fly semi-straight off the shelf.. (The arrows are clearly not straight themselves, so I assume they wouldn't fly very straight anyway)

I nock the new cheap arrows in the same place, and I have tried different places on the serving.. They don't just fly down, once it flew to the right, another time it flew up. Honestly I think it is just THOSE arrows... Reviews state that these arrows are absolute garbage, and the reviewers seemed more knowledgeable than I am.

 

[kenn1320]

You need to get a knock on that string, whether it's a crimp on one, tied on dental floss one, or an inch of electrical tape wrapped around the string tightly placing the knock underneath it. If you're shooting with three fingers under the knock then you need a second nocking point below the arrow.

 

[FernKrieger]

Why do you say I need a nock? What are they for?

 

[kenn1320]

They ensure a consistent arrow placement on the string, while keeping the nock from sliding on the string during the draw/shot cycle. In some cases you can shoot without one, but it's best to use one. Google it for pics.

 

[j.conner]

I highly recommend getting to an archery club or shop for lessons. See http://www.gaarchery.org/archeryclubs/ and http://georgiaarchery.com/archery-shops/

You would probably want to get a Samick Sage or a beginner ILF rig. It would really be best to get some lessons and use their gear so you will learn what fits you. I usually tell folks to avoid buying anything right away as their skill, strength, and preference will probably rapidly change.