My comfort poundage is 40# with a max of 45#. What are some of the faster one piece recurves to look at for a hunting bow? My current bows are 62”+ and I’m comfortable with that length and have never shot one shorter but would consider a bit shorter bow.
Faster recurves
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Honestly, the speed difference between different makes of recurves is marginal.
Might be good to talk about the speed issue first. What arrow speed do you get now and why do you want to be faster?
Would be good to review your setup as there might be some ways to raise the performance of your current equipment.
Might be good to talk about the speed issue first. What arrow speed do you get now and why do you want to be faster?
Would be good to review your setup as there might be some ways to raise the performance of your current equipment.
Right now shooting my Samick Discovery at 45#, 28.5 DL, 470grn arrow at a blazing 158fps.
I would have thought I would have been a bit faster.
Where speed is a concern is for hunting and broad head selection. I use the two blade Magnus Stingers but seems the ones they call four blade heads (two blade with a bleeder blade) would be a better choice. Either way, more energy is always better at lower poundage hunting bows.
On top of that I have been thinking of getting a nice looking one piece recurve and if I do I would like it to be on the faster side.
I would have thought I would have been a bit faster.
Where speed is a concern is for hunting and broad head selection. I use the two blade Magnus Stingers but seems the ones they call four blade heads (two blade with a bleeder blade) would be a better choice. Either way, more energy is always better at lower poundage hunting bows.
On top of that I have been thinking of getting a nice looking one piece recurve and if I do I would like it to be on the faster side.
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Much to talk about here.
First, it sounds like you've go the itch for a new bow. I can understand that. I'm not up to speed on current one piece bows, so will wait to see what others have to say.
As far as broadhead performance goes, momentum is your friend. Your current setup has lots of momentum with a hefty mass component. A well placed shot with a sharp BH is going to go right through deer sized game. Don't get caught in the speed equals more energy trap. You could easily switch to a lighter, faster arrow but it's not going to give you more energy and probably would be less. At least your lighter arrow would lose energy quicker. If you want to see what difference a lighter arrow would make with your current bow, you could easily drop to around 400 gr and still have a reasonably heavy hunting arrow. I agree with Steve that a string change could add some more speed. Maybe 5fps depending on what you are using now.
Last thing to mention is that you could look into different limbs for your Discovery as it is ILF. Mediums would shorten your bow to 60". A good hunting length for your DL.
First, it sounds like you've go the itch for a new bow. I can understand that. I'm not up to speed on current one piece bows, so will wait to see what others have to say.
As far as broadhead performance goes, momentum is your friend. Your current setup has lots of momentum with a hefty mass component. A well placed shot with a sharp BH is going to go right through deer sized game. Don't get caught in the speed equals more energy trap. You could easily switch to a lighter, faster arrow but it's not going to give you more energy and probably would be less. At least your lighter arrow would lose energy quicker. If you want to see what difference a lighter arrow would make with your current bow, you could easily drop to around 400 gr and still have a reasonably heavy hunting arrow. I agree with Steve that a string change could add some more speed. Maybe 5fps depending on what you are using now.
Last thing to mention is that you could look into different limbs for your Discovery as it is ILF. Mediums would shorten your bow to 60". A good hunting length for your DL.
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If poundage and DL is correct that speed is low. Actually that bow is a dog. With a fair release and light string silencer (like catwiskers) the average speed loss is around 4 to 6 fps compared to the same bow on a shooting machine and naked string. You could reach the 180 fps mark for 10 gpp arrow with a Hurst Prana, a Toelke Chinook or a Caribow Tuktu EX in the glass limb bow league or the 190 fps with a Border mosstrooper , a Timberghost G4 or a centaur Recurve in the carbon limb bow league.
I don't know how deep your pockets are but if you want speed from a low poundage recurve, look no further than Morrison. His MAX 6 ILF limbs are amazing. Couple them with a 17" riser and you're good to go. His limbs aren't cheap by any standard, but the quality and performance is second to none.
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Pretty sure that one piece takes you out of the speed market. SR's are the clear winner when it comes to speed and I think they're all 3 piece bows.
Just to give you an example, a fast conventional bow compare to a SR, in order for them to shoot about the same speed (assuming same poundage etc) the conventional bow would be and 10 gpp and the SR would be around 15 gpp.]
When I switched to a SR from a longbow I dropped 11 pounds and gained 6 foot/pounds of energy. That's tuned arrow to tuned arrow, not the same speed of course.
Bowmania
Just to give you an example, a fast conventional bow compare to a SR, in order for them to shoot about the same speed (assuming same poundage etc) the conventional bow would be and 10 gpp and the SR would be around 15 gpp.]
When I switched to a SR from a longbow I dropped 11 pounds and gained 6 foot/pounds of energy. That's tuned arrow to tuned arrow, not the same speed of course.
Bowmania
I guess I didn’t specify speed much when I was talking about faster recurves, my hopes were more along the line of 180+FPS for 470grn. @ 40lbs, 28.5” DL. I did turn my bolts in to one turn out but only got 162fps off the 45# limbs but I was expecting more out of these limbs. I have a set of 40# Samick R3 limbs on back order at Alternative. I like the draw of the limbs and there is no stacking even if I overdraw a bit.
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180 fps is pretty ambitous for almost 12 gpp in any one piece glass/wood limb recurve.
Not saying they're not out there, but going to be easier with limb makers who are geared toward that end.
If I needed to stay in that weight range and felt like I had to have that kind of fps I would definitely follow Bow's path and his Border set-up or similar.
Not saying they're not out there, but going to be easier with limb makers who are geared toward that end.
If I needed to stay in that weight range and felt like I had to have that kind of fps I would definitely follow Bow's path and his Border set-up or similar.
Maybe I was a bit too hopeful in my FPS speeds with my poundage and draw length. Plus I’m not looking at spending a lot of money for +20 FPS. Being new to traditional archery I’m still learning.
When I started out 50 years ago before shooting compounds we just shot the heaviest bows and settled for whatever, we had no chronographs. It was about ten years later when I started with compounds and quickly learned the hay bales we used for our recurves didn’t stop compound arrows, that’s all I needed to know as far as speed/power for hunting. The 70#compound bows reliably shot pass throughs on most shots on deer.
I have to wonder sometimes how fast was that old 50# Ben Pearson with I don’t know what weight arrows.
When I started out 50 years ago before shooting compounds we just shot the heaviest bows and settled for whatever, we had no chronographs. It was about ten years later when I started with compounds and quickly learned the hay bales we used for our recurves didn’t stop compound arrows, that’s all I needed to know as far as speed/power for hunting. The 70#compound bows reliably shot pass throughs on most shots on deer.
I have to wonder sometimes how fast was that old 50# Ben Pearson with I don’t know what weight arrows.
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I think you should start off by dropping your Arrow weight down to about 10 g per pound, and if that don’t do it for you just buy some better limbs for your current riser. you should easily be able to get into the 180s and with the set of 45 pound limbs and a 450 grain arrow. just go to trad Lab and check out some of the test. there Are a lot of bows out now that are hitting 180 at 10 g per pound several that are pushing 185. they just added a bunch of stuff to. My current set ups are pushing about 170 to 175 and 11 to 12 grain per pound range, I just cronoed them last night. Matter fact my VX plus pushed a 505 grain arrow across the crono 180 ft./s it’s scales at 45.5 pounds. And that is off my fingers
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Get you the hottest release at Bob Lee bows: the CobraCurve !
Yeeesss Bob Lee recurve will now reach the 190 fps at 28*»/10gpp.
Yeeesss Bob Lee recurve will now reach the 190 fps at 28*»/10gpp.
Your speed is surprising. I'm shooting a Discovery at about 185 FPS OTF for 10 GR/LB/ . Thats about a 500 grain arrow and my set up measures at 50 lb at my 27 3/4 draw. I'm playing with some light arrows build on Gold Tip hunter shafts at 8 gr/lb that are well over 200 fps, OTF. By comparison, I have 2 Ben Pearson Colts. 1 45 lb and 1 40 lb. Both shoot in the high 150's at 10 Gr/lb OTF. My set of PSE Mustangs, a bit more modern design are 170 ish at the same. Long long winded way of saying something is not right. Discovery set up with either the R1 or R3 is not a slow bow generally speaking. Kurt
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If you take away wanting to spend hundreds of more dollars then I would (and do myself) just tune heavier arrows with 2 blade heads and live with the speed you get. 480 gr. is as low as I would even consider from a 40 pound draw weight, 450 gr. if you are actually getting 165 to 170 fps.
Nobody I shoot with has any idea how fast my arrows are going ('cept Charlie). No one has ever said, "omg Glynn those arrows sure look like they are going slow, they are just going to drop out of the sky past 20 yards." Sure there is a difference in trajectory between 150 fps and 170 fps, but when you are shooting at something at 18 yards you are not going to see it.
Know your gaps intuitively to your point-on or your arrows flight instinctively to your max range and keep your hunting shots there and below, you're going to be fine.
Nobody I shoot with has any idea how fast my arrows are going ('cept Charlie). No one has ever said, "omg Glynn those arrows sure look like they are going slow, they are just going to drop out of the sky past 20 yards." Sure there is a difference in trajectory between 150 fps and 170 fps, but when you are shooting at something at 18 yards you are not going to see it.
Know your gaps intuitively to your point-on or your arrows flight instinctively to your max range and keep your hunting shots there and below, you're going to be fine.
For all I know my 20 year old chrony can be off. The speeds I get don't make sense to me. Maybe it's time for a new chrony.
At the distance I shoot or hunt it won't make a difference, I'm just looking at arrow energy.
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