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Victim of Geography
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My draw length has increased from my newish (4 months) anchor and shooting a recurve.

With my longbow my DL was 28" on the dot. I measured it today and it"s now 29 1/4"!! I have a solid anchor with the joint of the thumb on the back of my jaw bone and feather on nose. I say it's solid as when shooting over a chrony my extreme spread is no more than 4fps over 20 shots.

My BS are showing well weak at 35 yards although I have been shooting at 20 yards mostly where they show slightly weak.

My arrows are now 29 1/4"BOP to nock, 100gr points. I need to trim them some more to tune them but am weary of shortening them to less than my DL. The other option is to build out the strike plate more but I'm already 1/8" before center and feel I would be wasting the bow's performance.

My tiller bolts are already as far out as I dare go, 1/2 turn before what the manual says is max. The bow also feels better when I'm about center of adjustment and I believe they are more efficient there (I read that somewhere on here).

Sorry for the long story but thanks for reading.
 

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I don't know if this is the answer to your question, however you say that your DL is 29 1/4," That being established I would suggest a length of no less than 29 2/3" or better
30" I think would be ideal.
 

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Victim of Geography
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't know if this is the answer to your question, however you say that your DL is 29 1/4," That being established I would suggest a length of no less than 29 2/3" or better
30" I think would be ideal.
They were 30" 35/55. I assumed my draw length was still 28" and trimmed to 29 1/4" to stiffen the spine, 1/4" at a time.

Only the tip now protrudes from the back of the riser though the apex of the shelf is 1 3/4" from the back. The shelf high point is in line with the grip.
 

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That... Is an accident waiting to happen! Lighter tips or perhaps an arrow wrap. What is your feather length?
Your shafts, according to conventional wisdom should extend, at the very least a quarter inch beyond the back of the bow (the side of the bow facing the target.) and an inch would be ideal.
 

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Barefaced tightropewalker
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Your shafts, according to conventional wisdom should extend, at the very least a quarter inch beyond the back of the bow (the side of the bow facing the target.) and an inch would be ideal.
I would think that's a good rule of thumb but I don't think it's completely essential.
This fellows clicker puts the tip of the arrow within the sight window.
The full size picture can be found here.



This fellow also:
Full size here.



Similarly barebow archers:
 

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Zulu,

What nocks are you currently using? What inserts?

I've got a 28.5" DL and I shoot arrows down to 27.25" BOP, but that is getting very close to as short as I'd go.

-Grant
 
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Your draw length may well increase further, so I would not cut your already short shafts. There are other options. I would not hesitate to build out your side plate if that helps. You could get lighter points. Or you could add weight to the back of the arrow with wraps or long vanes. Or you could detune your bow a bit by raising the brace height beyond normal.

All of this is normal. Your will need different and longer arrows in future. - lbg
 
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finger shooter
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Try increasing BH 1/4 inch and see how that works. If you have room for more as per manufacturer guidelines, then go as much as you can in 1/4 increments. If no room, try lighter tips, and you can also add weight to nock end of arrow. Yep this should say decrease BH...... Duh
 

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You could easily cut that arrow 1", but I wouldn't.

A simple remedy would be to use G-uni bushings and G-nocks. These add just a little weight on the back of the arrow and also have the benefit of increasing durability a LOT.

Another good option would be to drop to a 75gr point and add a 1.5" footing. The footing will make-up some of the lost weight but at the same time that section of arrow will bend less and overall the arrow will be stiffened. Again with the benefit of being much more durable.

-Grant
 
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Victim of Geography
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Does an increase in brace height not weaken the arrow?

I think I'll just build out the strike plate as per longbowguy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Grantmac, I thought about footing them but I have footed arrows for my liongbow and the blokes at the club where I shoot were complaining that the ruin the targets!
 

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Need to use a thin walled shaft and very carefully taper the back end. Then they come out without any issue.

Generally I go with lowering the BH when trying to make the arrow act weaker. A string with more strands and/or silencers will help too.

-Grant
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have a string I made that needed the limbs to be wound in a turn and a half. It shot about 6fps slower than the other strings.

It just seems a waste to de-tune a bow;)

The footing was a 2117 that was tapered at the back, they come out the target no problem but the bloke who seems to run the place brought the issue up. Didn't want a run in the compound blokes.
 

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Does an increase in brace height not weaken the arrow?

I think I'll just build out the strike plate as per longbowguy.
Increasing the brace height a fair amount will weaken the bow to match the arrow. That is, it will reduce the power stroke, hence the power, and the arrow speed. - lbg
 
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Victim of Geography
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Put the slower string on, wound the limbs in and all good up to 35 yards (most of the time).

I'm overdoing this tuning thing, need to just shoot more. It's just I normally shoot a BS every end to check up on my form.
 
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