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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I hope to use this bow to "learn". I want to play with the brace and the tiller to get optimal performance. Can I assume that would be set where the bow is quietest? I plan to shoot it until my custom order bow arrives. Then this will be a fishing bow
 

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Rest or shelf? Split or 3 under? What distance?

-Grant
 

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Even tiller 8" brace hieght measured from center of side plate hole. no grip wilson racket tape on riser. I shoot 3 under. set at 39# @ 28" I pull about 28.5" shooting 35/55 gold tip arrows full length 145grn point and a 5grn washer. bow is 62" carbon foam limbs.
 

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I have only got 1 DAS connection bow but I've been told that you keep the thumbscrews loose until after it's strung then tighten them.

Do you have the shelf built out at all? What does the arrow alignment look like when viewed from behind?

-Grant

P.S: Just keep the tiller even and increase the BH until it gets quiet.
 

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On the side plate screw I have them set up with both the side screw and the leather build out. On the side screw you may need to use a pair of pliers to get it screwed down as far as you can. With cr express arrows this will get your arrow just barely outside centershot. This works well for me. On the leather I have it contoured like the original das plastic side plates with velcro on it. This set up puts the arrow in exactly the same place.

As for the limb screws get your bow strung, then hand tighten them snug. That will take care of the looseness.

If you read up on what Sosa says about tiller you will set them dead even. Majority of the good IBO shooters set the tiller at even on all kinds of risers
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have only got 1 DAS connection bow but I've been told that you keep the thumbscrews loose until after it's strung then tighten them.

Do you have the shelf built out at all? What does the arrow alignment look like when viewed from behind?

-Grant

P.S: Just keep the tiller even and increase the BH until it gets quiet.
With the leather pad only, it is perfect centershot. With a tooth pic behind it, it sticks out 1/4 at the length of the arrow held at centershot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just read David's article again on tiller. Good article. Anybody ever tiller tune by shooting long range groups. I used to do this with my compounds. It made a surprising difference. Always a sweet spot. Reminded me of handloading, some combination just groups better. I can't recall who the guy is that used to push this technique???
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I think I will tiller shoot tune this bow just to see, to fine tune and record everything, maybe pics, but I will use a sight. After I get it set up, shooting good. It might be interesting
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Should the limb bolts be set in a particular position? I realize that you can adjust the weight slightly, but I think I have read where others said not to bottom them out. And I read something about being able to put a dollar bill somewhere?
 

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Bolts go full in, 1/4-1/2 turn out is max "in". Typically you can go 4 turns out from there for max "out". Das may be able to go out further, one of the das gurus will know for sure. I would start them at 2.5 full turns out from bottomed, even tiller "as measured". This will allow you to turn one limb in and the other out for max tiller range. I've gone one limb full in, other full out and see no difference. Maybe you will see a difference.
 
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