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So I see string recommendations here are mostly guys doing primarily trad hunting stuff. But if you are into WA bare bow competition stuff, where are you going for strings? I've heard 60x but are there small custom builders doing this kind of thing?
 

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I make my own, but, if I was going to order, I would probably try 60X first, provided they can make a 72 inch string with 7 inch end servings.
 

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Second Hank's advice. I build my own endless strings. Have owned an Apple string jig for over 30 years, they never wear out. Gives you complete control of number of strands, string material, end loop serving material and finally center serving material and nock fit. Big advantage when shooting ILF bows with limbs and riser from different manufactures as you can make a string of the right length to get a suitable brace. Using the old advice of 4" less than bow length for recurves and 3 " less for longbows may not always provide the correct length.
 
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Diy
 

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Well then, if one were to make their own strings what are some starting parameters and materials? I'm not asking for a string making tutorial but rather what material, number of stands, etc would be a good starting place for the OP's needs? I'm guessing you'd want a fast string with aggressive low stretch , no worry about noise, maybe a low diameter/strand count.... Would you have to pad out the loops and center serving for a thinner string? Would you double serve for nock fit, use a larger diameter serving, or pad under with additional string sections? Would you keep the center serving short for reduced weight or longer for better regidity at the draw point? What is important tant to you for WA barbow?
 

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As a target shooter I would use a continuous loop string to BCY strand count recommendations. That would mean 16 strand D97, 18 strand 8120, or 22 to 24 strand 8190. 452X would be about 16 strand. I have used 452X a lot but never built a string with it. There is no need to pad the loops. Center serving depends on nock size. 0.14 Halo works for small groove gnocks. I used 021 #62XS for my Black Eagle nocks on my stringwalking bow. I keep lots of sizes around and test by doing a few wraps around the string and checking the fit. I am actually a big advocate of using Halo for end servings. It is very rugged and reliable. I use 0.14. You don't need to do much special because you are not going skinny and you are using a bow designed for target shooting.
 

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Well then, if one were to make their own strings what are some starting parameters and materials? I'm not asking for a string making tutorial but rather what material, number of stands, etc would be a good starting place for the OP's needs? I'm guessing you'd want a fast string with aggressive low stretch , no worry about noise, maybe a low diameter/strand count.... Would you have to pad out the loops and center serving for a thinner string? Would you double serve for nock fit, use a larger diameter serving, or pad under with additional string sections? Would you keep the center serving short for reduced weight or longer for better regidity at the draw point? What is important tant to you for WA barbow?
I'd want the exact opposite for a competitive string. Higher strand count using a bit more elastic material and thinner serving. Served well above eye level and low enough for longer crawls.
 

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8125 is very popular with Olympic - 16 to 20 strands. Good choice indoors as well with many running the higher strand counts and lots of serving = slower speed for clser point on.
 

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DIY, when I have issues I ask here and get help from other builders.
Odd I see it opposite, most I see here are building for target archery.
Most of my strings I build are of a more strand count.
Like for instance my hunting bow used to be 55-58# and a 12 strand d97 string, now it’s 14-16 strand d97.
Target strings are doing same thing more strand count. Center serving is short 5” on all strings since I don’t walk the string.
My indoor bow is a low strand count of 18 strand 8190 Flemish twist, why I wanted to learn how to make a Flemish twist and only 9 pegs on the board.
Endless loop I normally build 22 strand 8190.

What I’ve found personally and my shooting is a higher strand string is more forgiving. No I don’t shoot low strand count strings, I see a notice between 12 and 16 strand on d97

8125 16-18 strand is good for me with .19 halo serving
D97 14-16 with .19 halo serving
8190 22 strand with .19 halo serving
I can normally drop two strands for halo .21 serving
452x I quit shooting a long time ago.
Nock brand can also affect center serving diameter.

Really like 8190 but they are discontinuing so once my supply is gone I will prob drop string type to d97 and 8125.

As for buying a string for target, I used Chad Weaver from champion bowstrings and mountain muffler from Robert, yeah it’s been that long since I bought a string.

Chad
 

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If you shoot fairly conventional bows then you can feel pretty safe buying strings. I shoot super recurves in non standard lengths. The different models take different bow string lengths. Also, I have to serve the ends long enough to get around the recurves. Sometimes the first string I make does not work so I have to make another. If you shoot these types of bows, it is nice to be able to whip out your own strings.
 

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On the other hand, just for info sake, master string builder Rick Barbee after extensive tests concluded that properly made Flemish twist strings equal the performance of good endless loop ones. So if, like me, your are already set up to make your own Flemish strings you are not likely handicapped at all. I believe Rick does not make strings commercially any more. - lbg
 

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If you shoot fairly conventional bows then you can feel pretty safe buying strings. I shoot super recurves in non standard lengths. The different models take different bow string lengths. Also, I have to serve the ends long enough to get around the recurves. Sometimes the first string I make does not work so I have to make another. If you shoot these types of bows, it is nice to be able to whip out your own strings.
Even with conventional bows, I'm pretty fussy about nock fit, serving length, how tightly the string is twisted, and so on. Hard to get everything right without a bit of trial and error, so I find it easiest to make my own strings.
 

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WP,

Once you establish a formula it is easy to make new strings. You can put a mark on your jig for each bow. The downside on continuous loop is the storing the jig and the cost of a real sturdy one like an Apple or Yellowstone. I was using a Spigarelli telescoping jig until recently. Now I am using jig spindles that you C clamp to a board. Our club had a machinist make them for us. I went to these because they have a wider span for the longer end servings I need to make, and I can make really long strings, longer than I can with my Spigarelli. I may try to rig up some straps and rails so I can add more tension.
 
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GRANT, several months ago "they" removed our permissions to DELETE our own posts & threads from most forums, main forum included.
So if someone posts something & then feels it was in error or in bad taste, and formerly would have deleted it themselves, now it's necessary to ask a moderator or an admin to remove a post or thread.......possibly leaving the error or offensive post out there for a period of time until someone else can delete it.
I SEE that someone removed my 2 "delete test" posts from yesterday.
 
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