[kenn1320]

Put a clicker on my RU bow and am truly enjoying the experience. Im using a string activated type. I find more often then not I set it off just prior to completing my draw. Is this indicative of a rotational draw? Should I force myself to let down when this happens? I know I read Hank changed his anchor to work around this issue. Anybody else deal with this and what is the fix?

 

[G-Dawg]

Just prior to complete draw, do you mean prior to anchor? In any case the rotational draw at least for me had nothing to do with pre- clicking, it had more to do with drawing past anchor then setting my head. You can try and make the clicker string a bit longer but this will wear you out faster. I made a conscious effort to set my head and keep it still as possible while I drew back. Reduced the pre-clicking a lot but did not eliminate them especially once I started to tire. hope this helps.

 

[Grantmac]

I find that when shooting with a clicker than I need to complete the J-motion before reaching anchor and then draw straight back for the last little bit rather than coming into anchor from the side.
I'd let down any shot that clicked before you were expanding.

-Grant

 

[Hank D Thoreau]

Kenn,

I did not change my anchor, I shortened my initial draw (out to the curve of the J), sort of like Grant is saying. I have to start looping back on my J sooner or else I pull through the clicker. It may be like the hypotenuse of a right triangle. If you pull back too far before coming into anchor, you pull through the clicker. The consequence is that I actually shortened my overall draw length. I am now drawing slightly under 32 inches, down from a maximum of 32 1/2. This is an overdraw issue, even though you are not drawing past anchor (linearly) and settling back in, like a lot of folks do. You are pulling the arrow out away from you until you have drawn further than the distance to your anchor, and then moving into anchor, where you should see the arrow moving forward a bit as a result of the initial overdraw.

 

[kenn1320]

I believe you guys are correct, think I'm moving my head and relaxing my draw slightly. I don't really see it in my draw hand so much, but watching the tip of the arrow on video I can see it.

 

[Harpman]

It might take You some time, and experimenting to get the Clicker set just right...Maybe I do things wrong, but it seems for me, that when I'm not warmed up, the Clicker is harder to set off... Once I have warmed up, and I'm drawing rotationally, keeping my head still, settling into anchor, it just takes a tiny amount of squeezing to trigger the Clicker...If I try to make the Clicker go off, it's difficult...One thing that I've learned through using the Clicker, is that once the draw length/Clicker length is set properly, any alignment issues, or lack of staying in load with the proper back muscles will show themselves immediately...Now for me, just figuring out how to do all these things properly, AND get a good aiming system/sight picture, I'd be doing O.K...it seems that unless I'm scrunched up a bit, I cant get the arrow under my eye, and get the sight picture/aiming system that I want...Unless I want my point on to be out around 40-45 yards, anyway........Take care.........Jim

 

[Paul Muise]

Another thing to keep in mind is that if you find yourself fighting the clicker while shooting uphill, or if the clicker goes off too early while shooting downhill, bend the waist to the proper angle to maintain a consistent draw length.

 

[Seven Arrows]

I set the clicker so that I can come to a complete bone on bone anchor, stop and hold for an indeterminate time, aim, and then, (using only the back) set off the clicker, triggering the release.

Getting the clicker setting right is kinda tricky. Once you get it set, you need to make note of exact brace height, because string stretch will change clicker distance.

On my hunting bow I divide the string and take a couple of hitches around one side. This allows me to adjust the clicker distance by simply sliding it up or down.

 

[kenn1320]

Watched some oly competition and noticed foot position and twist of upper body. I messed around with it and it feels a bit more stable, but still drawing through the clicker sometimes. I'll keep working on it. I've also incorporated aligning my stance up with that white pole, then ensuring my head is straight, then turn my head towards the target. How do I look?
http://s.photobucket.com/user/kenn1320/media/Archery/0E1811E2-E67D-43D6-BB5B-B20A3B4C5017_zps0nxo0bgh.mp4.html

 

[Hank D Thoreau]

The KSL method used by many Olympic style archers, makes great use of the core muscles. An open stance is used. The shoulders rotate during the draw, with the hips staying fairly stationary, loading the core muscles. This allows you to get the core involved in the shot and to create stability. I would provide more but my copy of Total Archery is missing. I may need to order another copy. I have been looking all over for it.

 

[Seven Arrows]

Watched some oly competition and noticed foot position and twist of upper body. I messed around with it and it feels a bit more stable, but still drawing through the clicker sometimes. I'll keep working on it. I've also incorporated aligning my stance up with that white pole, then ensuring my head is straight, then turn my head towards the target. How do I look?
http://s.photobucket.com/user/kenn1320/media/Archery/0E1811E2-E67D-43D6-BB5B-B20A3B4C5017_zps0nxo0bgh.mp4.html

Lookin' pretty dang good there!

 

[Hank D Thoreau]

I had just given up on ever finding my copy of Kisik Lee's Total Archery and went on line to order another copy. It was just under $70. I decided to look one more time and found it. I guess I needed a bit of financial motivation.

 

[kenn1320]

Lookin' pretty dang good there!

Thanks, hopefully this clicker improves my low 220 scores on the Vegas 300. I'm also going to try some weight tubes in my carbons and some fat/long/heavy aluminum arrows to see if I can get my point on closer to the gold.

 

[Unk Bond]

I set the clicker so that I can come to a complete bone on bone anchor, stop and hold for an indeterminate time, aim, and then, (using only the back) set off the clicker, triggering the release.

Getting the clicker setting right is kinda tricky. Once you get it set, you need to make note of exact brace height, because string stretch will change clicker distance.

On my hunting bow I divide the string and take a couple of hitches around one side. This allows me to adjust the clicker distance by simply sliding it up or down.

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Hello
Ive seen a lot of clickers over the years.
This one I have never seen. And never saw one worked by a bow string. Very interesting.
Is this one home made, or purchased. [ Later

 

[kenn1320]

=====================

Hello
Ive seen a lot of clickers over the years.
This one I have never seen. And never saw one worked by a bow string. Very interesting.
Is this one home made, or purchased. [ Later

3 rivers and others sell them. There are (2) maybe more on the market, mine is called a clickety clicker I think and is the same or similar to the one posted by Seven Arrows. They are commonly mounted on the upper limb, but mine is mounted below my hand on the riser. If you watch the video closely you can see the black cord. Mounted closer to your hand supposedly allows you to string walk.

 

[Unk Bond]

3 rivers and others sell them. There are (2) maybe more on the market, mine is called a clickety clicker I think and is the same or similar to the one posted by Seven Arrows. They are commonly mounted on the upper limb, but mine is mounted below my hand on the riser. If you watch the video closely you can see the black cord. Mounted closer to your hand supposedly allows you to string walk.

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Hello
Thanks.
Will check it out.