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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone here shoot a recurve that is truly center shot?
With a 5/16' arrow, mine is and I am wondering of I should bother to go to a thicker strike plate?
The arrows fly well but I am getting a bit of feather wear on bottom hen feather indicating stiff spine.
Titan II, 54# @29". Brace is 8 1/4".
GoldTip .400, 31", 125 tip with 20 grain weight to insert for total point weight of 158 grains. 3 x 4" fletching, left wing
 

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I'm certainly not the "sharpest tool in the shed" here to be answering tune questions, but I think recurve risers cut 3/16th inch past center are fairly common among bowyers. Mine is and with a calf hair sideplate my 5/16" shafts are still pointing well left of the centerline at brace. Your set-up sounds reasonable to me and a thicker sideplate is going to make a given arrow act stiffer unless I'm missing something. Why not try a 175 or 200 gr. head if you want to weaken spine? My bottom hens will show wear when my nock point is too low.
 

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The arrows fly well but I am getting a bit of feather wear on bottom hen feather indicating stiff spine.
Assuming your nock height is correct, here is a couple things that could eliminate your feather wear.

First of all, if you don't already have one, tie a second nock set below your nock. This prevents downward nock slip upon release.

https://plus.google.com/photos/116451859615119061133/albums/5440061363494899889?banner=pwa

Second, turn cock feather in. This gets your lower hen feather out away from your shelf when the arrow flexes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have a second nock set tied in. I guess I will have to try and adjust the distance between them.
When I say the bow is center shot, I am referring to the arrow position. The string tracks down the center of the limbs and the arrow as it sets on the set before being drawn. Usually I see guys shooting so that the inside edge of the arrow tip aligns just to the outside of the string.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I want to avoid going to cock feather in as I think it is a fix rather than a solution. I have to figure that that feather will then wear. Will try heavier points and weights in the inserts to weaken spine.
 

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Try dropping your brace high by two turns at a time,that way you weaken your spine slightly and gain a bit of extra power stroke and speed.
I shoot a Titan II with medium limbs at 35lb @28.5 .
Have my brace set at 7" and it shoots very very well.
Also have my arrow aligned with the string.
Maybe add a bit of preload for a similar effect, or even both like I have.

John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry for the typo.... Bow is Titan III (19"), not Titan II.
I don't know if that will matter or not.
The TradTech web sight recommends a brace of 7 3/4" - 8 3/4" for the 19" riser and my long limbs.
I went to a 145 tip with 20 grain insert weight and then even added another and they still fly well. That is giving me just shy of 200 grains total point weight. I was never one for a lot of tip weight but in this case, it may be the way to go. I hope to get some powder and dust the riser to check for clearance.
 

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I want to avoid going to cock feather in as I think it is a fix rather than a solution. I have to figure that that feather will then wear. Will try heavier points and weights in the inserts to weaken spine.
That's not necessarily the case. Avoiding cock feather contact requires substantially less flex than lower hen feather contact.

Also turning cock feather in is no more of a "fix" than adding point weight. They both just allow for the use of a shaft that might be marginally stiff. Whatever you do to get proper arrow flight with minimal or no contact is a "solution."
 
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