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Bart Harmeling
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I made a new string a few weeks ago for the TD1 riser from Steve and Dryad Epic limbs. I under estimated the BH so the string I built was too long. I need to make another and I'll do a build along for it.

This string needs to be 57 1/2" long. I'll use UltraCam and make a 2 bundle 10 strand Flemish with the loops padded to 18 strands. I want to keep the number of twists for this string between 30 and 45. I'll serve the string with .026 Crown over a base of Teflon tape. I'll tie on a double nock set and install DynaPuff style silencers.

Here are the materials and tools I'll use.
Amsteel rope, 4 colors of UltraCam, beeswax, BearPaw serving tool w/Crown serving material, Teflon tape, sharp knife, hemostat, paper clamps, measuring tape, #4 nylon serving, clear nail polish, and a string jig from 3 River Archery.
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Bart Harmeling
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3,658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I keep record for strings I have made in the past. Hitting the exact length is no easy matter so it helps to have a starting place. For this string I'll use the following specs that I keep on record. The 2 bundles will be 73 1/2" long. That is 16" more than the intended final string length. The leads for both the top and bottom loops will each be 9". The top loop will have 8 sets of twists and the lower loop will have 7 sets of twists. I'll add an additional 4 padding strands of UltraCam at the end of each bundle for a total of 18 strands in the loops. Any variation of these specs will cause a change in the length of the string. Using longer leads will result in a shorter string. Using more sets of twists in the loops will result in a longer string. Using more strands in the body or other materials with greater diameter will result in a shorter string. As mentioned before, I wish to keep the total number of twist in the body of the string to between 30 and 60. Less and the diameter of the string becomes irregular and more causes the string to become springy.
 

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Bart Harmeling
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3,658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I'll repeat this process until a total of 4 strands have been added. At this point I like to do something a little different. I add a different color strand to serve as a tracer. This contrasting strand helps later when I add padding strands and when I add counter twists before the final loop is made. I also like the looks of the finished string better than the standard "Barber Pole" design. This picture shows how I tie the tracer strand in place.
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Bart Harmeling
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3,658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Remove the strands taking care to keep them from moving out of position in the bundle. Wax the bundle. Wax is your helper. Use plenty. I like to use beeswax. Often I need to place it in my pocket so it warms and softens. Place extra wax on the last 12" at each end.
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Bart Harmeling
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3,658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Now I'll take one of the waxed bundles and lay it down on the jig. The length of the end is 9". I have place index marks for a range of measurements. The wax helps the strand stick to the jig and stay in place.
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Thanks Bart...I tried making a string a while back and failed miserably.
Watched Rick Barbee's video on u-tube which I thought was very informative
but messed up anyway. Hope this helps.

Max
 
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