[Youngtradshooter]

Like my first post I was asking a bout a bow I was looking for a nice quality takedown for around 400 dollars what brand would you guys recommend I had a PSE which never did me wrong but I was wondering if their were any better brands out there for that $400 range what would u guys recommend I was looking at a bear 1 piece but for travel sake if you guys could get back to me thanks!!!!!!!!

 

[longrifle346]

I'd look for one of Sam Dunham's Warfs and a nice set of ILF limbs in the draw weight you need. You can put together a complete kit for $400, arrows, tab/glove, quiver, and all.....

 

[Youngtradshooter]

I'd look for one of Sam Dunham's Warfs and a nice set of ILF limbs in the draw weight you need. You can put together a complete kit for $400, arrows, tab/glove, quiver, and all.....

Where can I find this warf and limbs?

 

[John in NZ]

Buy a Samick Sage an spend what you have left on good arrows.

 

[TradArcher]

Buy a Samick Sage an spend what you have left on good arrows.

Now that's good advice!

Tom

 

[longrifle346]

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Warfbow/213508965495982?ref=hl

Our Trading Blanket here is all you really need. With a little patience and cash at the ready you can find most anything you want...

 

[ivorycollector]

I will second the Sage. You cant go wrong with the price and I have seen lots of people extremely happy with theirs. Or wait for a quality pre-loved.

 

[UrbanDeerSlayer]

Omega Delta. Not the prettiest bow you can buy, but it is very affordable and shoots like a dream. Shoots better than bows that cost twice as much.

ANkther affordable option is the Warf/ILF, or a Hoyt Excel riser and ILF limbs. The Samick Sage is also good for the money.

 

[Easykeeper]

Used bows are the best value in archery. Lots more bang for the buck and get your money back out if it when you want to upgrade.

 

[Stick]

I think used bows are by far the best bang for your buck. You can buy a bow, shoot it for a year, then sell it for the same money as long as you don't scratch it up. You'll end up loosing the shipping but that's cheap enough to "test drive" a bow for a year. I've owned widows, bob lee, palmer, HH, Dan Quillian, several Hoyt Riser ILF rigs........The best shooting bow I've ever owned is a Hoyt Raider warf with Samick limbs. I've been so impressed with it that I just sold my Palmer and ordered a Samick Devastator. I'll post a review of the Devastator when it arrives.

 

[the other DWS]

I second the WARF/Sam Dunham suggestion. A WARF is a select modified ex-compound handle adapted to use ILF or DAS system limbs. Its probably the best bang for the buck and still have money for well matched arrows. Get a good WARFed riser and you can upgrade to better/different limbs as your needs/skills/budget development. Used WARFs show up on the trade blanket too as do used limbs. best way to get your feet wet and keep the costs down.
Sam posts on the site, he currently has a poll going on riser length. go to it and PM him>

WARFs have a lo-o-o-o-o-o-o-ng history on this site--tons of good reading.

Search the TT classics sticky at the top of the page for starters. it'll save you having to ask a lot of questions---on all sorts of topics. also look at some of the sub forums.

 

[G-Dawg]

I would go with the Samick red stag for 200 dollars. We have 3 people that shoot that bow at our club in Baltimore. Two of them won shoots with those bows. Very nice grip and good speed for the money.

 

[Stick]

OK here's my 2 cents on the Samick Devastator.

First let me say I ordered it from Lancaster on Thursday and was shooting it Saturday.

First impressions were "pretty bow". I don't know what wood is in the limbs but they are as pretty as any of the high end bows I've owned. Limb to riser fit was good. Limbs are straight. They are long long limbs. The reason I chose this bow is it had the longest limbs for a 62" bow. I have a 32" draw and most bows stack like crazy but not this one!

The riser doesn't have the level of finish of any of the high end bows but I expected that. Anyone with some sand paper and some knowledge of how to finish wood could take it from here and make it look awesome but that isn't me. Nor do I really care.

I was on the fence of whether to order 40 or 45#. The goal was low 50s at my draw. A wise man would have called Lancaster and they would have figured that out for me with the actual bow that I would be getting but I ordered the 40# limbs just to be safe. Good thing I did. The 40# limbs are 44 on my scale and 55 at my draw. I wish it was a couple pounds lighter but this will be OK. For a 62" bow to only gain 11 lbs while being overdrawn 4" is rare. I'm happy happy with the smoothness.

Tiller was 1/8" positive (shorter) on the bottom.

The grip. I LOVE THE GRIP.

Why does Samick send the crappiest string I have ever seen with a $389 dollar bow????? Budget some money to get a new string when you order the bow !

The bow is LOUD. Now I understand that some of that is me. Any bow drawn to 32" is a lot louder than a similar bow drawn to 28". Imagine this. We all agree that me drawing [email protected] will make a lot more energy than someone else drawing a devastator that is [email protected] Now when I let go and my string gets back to brace there's a lot less tension on the string of my bow as compared to the other bow that's [email protected] So my bow will always have a lot more vibration than shorter drawn bows.

It's loud but I'm shooting an endless loop FF sting too. I hope it will settle down when I get a Flemish string on it.

It shoots 188 with a 548gr arrow, drawn to [email protected]". That's pretty quick.

So for $389 plus the cost of a good string I really don't think any of the custom bows I've owned were any better except for a little fit and finish on the riser.