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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got the string for my recurve. I put it on and measured my brace height and it was 6.5 inches. It seems kinda low but i guess i have to shoot it first. Cant find helical feather veined arrows anywhere around where I live. Also, i do have the right string. Thanks
 

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j-san = Jason
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We will need a bit more info to help you. Like the bow make, model, AMO length, etc. We also need to know what kind of string you got. How many strands, what string material, what length, construction, etc. 6.5" is low for most recurves, but there are some that use a brace that low. Best is to check with the bowyer and see what the recommended brace range is for your bow and use that as the guideline.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. It is a Bear Black Bear(80s bow), #60 AMO. I was told to buy a 56" 14 strand Dacron string so thats what i did. I will email Bear and see what say. Not sure if they even have information for this bow, but its worth a shot.
 

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j-san = Jason
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I have a 1970s Bear Grizzly that seems to like a brace of 7-3/4". Not sure about the Black Bear, but I would imagine it is around the 7-8" range on a 60" AMO recurve. If the brace height is too low, you can always add twists to the string to shorten it up a bit and raise brace. You don't want to put too many twists into the string or your bow's performance will suffer. I personally follow a max twist rule of no more than 1 twist per inch or no more than the number of twists as long as your string is (56" string= max 56 twists).

Dacron is a material that will continually stretch with use, so you may find the bow's brace to be ever changing depending on how long you leave it strung. You may have to add/subtract twists when you brace it after a period of being unbraced.
 

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You have the correct string length and j-san is correct about Dacron stretching but there will come a point at which it will no longer continue to stretch at least that's been my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks guys, I just e-mailed Bear and they said the same thing, 7-8". I twisted it a few turns and its set at 7 3/8. I got done and I got one of my old compound arrows with a Muzzy MX-3, of course regular 3 inch straight fletchings and went out and shot about 35 arrows. Man do I love instinctive! The first 10 shots i was all over the place and then calmed down and got my form right and really concentrated and they next 20 I was nailing a hog chest sized stump at 10-15 yards. Horrible arrows and no glove at that. Fingers are hurting, but it is satifying hitting something with no sights. Thanks for the help guys.
 

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If you are going to try string walking or switch between split and 3 under, it is easier with a glove. I switch between 3under and split finger depending on which bow I am shooting.
 

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j-san = Jason
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I prefer glove and shoot 3-under primarily. I change from 3-under to split to 2-over depending on distance and only a glove can allow me that level of flexibility. That and I find a glove to allow me greater dexterity than a tab for grabbing arrows out of my back quiver.

Why not just get one of each and see for yourself? I did that when I started out shooting trad and figured it out within the first week of shooting.
 

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I agree...keep your options open, and find what you like best. I started with a glove shooting split. After several years I switched to a Bateman split tab...and soon after I switched to a Bateman 3 under tab which I now prefer and get the best results with.

My point in asking was that I have a few cordovan Bateman split finger tabs. I shoot 3 under..so maybe a guy who has sore fingers and shoots split might want one? Cordovan wont wear out. Pm me your address if you want it and I'll drop it in the mail for you tomorrow. You can't enjoy shooting if your fingers are tore up..


Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Also, I have another question and I dont want to jam the forum up with another thread. I went out to shoot today and i do notice i have a rolling release which might be because of just using fingers. But the thing is, i keep hitting about 14 inches high consistently. Is this a form problem or part of the rolling release thing? Or maybe the straight fletched arrow? Also, is it smart to have a slight cant when you first start out?
 

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Like how consistent? Like all your arrows group 14" above where you are aiming/looking? When aiming instinctively you are just looking at the target and counting on your brain to adjust your arm for distance. Unless you are gapping(using the tip of your arrow to aim, adjusting the gap for distance) in this case increase your gap. Also, there is nothing wrong with canting your bow. I cant when shooting instinctive.
 

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It took me 3-4 years to realize gapping would make me a lot more consistent. Now I put the arrow tip a given distance below the spot I want to hit...and if I maintain decent form I am more consistently hitting my spot. The more I do it the less I have to focus on the size of my gap.
 

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OK, if its just high and not left or right, your brain is just tricking you. I did a 3d on the weekend and on the second to last target I put 3 arrows(my first, second and my mulligan) touching each other in the tree 6" above the target... It was a ram that was half the size as normal. The second round I hit the 10. The target was only 20 yards but I thought for sure it was 30 yards and just kept muffing the shot.
 

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It took me 3-4 years to realize gapping would make me a lot more consistent. Now I put the arrow tip a given distance below the spot I want to hit...and if I maintain decent form I am more consistently hitting my spot. The more I do it the less I have to focus on the size of my gap.
Once you do anything a few thousand times it seems like it actually becomes instinctive. I don't think about gaps much anymore unless I make major changes or start work with a new bow. Even then I try to set it up to use the same arrows at approximately the same draw weight so that my gaps are pretty consistent. I shot 8 tournaments this season and I believe I used the exact same riser/limb combination twice...
 

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Once you do anything a few thousand times it seems like it actually becomes instinctive. I don't think about gaps much anymore unless I make major changes or start work with a new bow. Even then I try to set it up to use the same arrows at approximately the same draw weight so that my gaps are pretty consistent. I shot 8 tournaments this season and I believe I used the exact same riser/limb combination twice...
The sad part is that doing it wrong several thousand times sure makes for one heck of an up hill battle once you give in, and commit to trying to do it correctly....and now I'm fighting target panic something fierce. Its bad this time. Bad enough where I wouldnt dare do the "aim at something you don't want to shoot" method. I can see it now... " Babe, we need a new flat screen in the living room, but I patched the hole behind it"
 
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