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BOW FISHING ON THE CHEAP – HOW ABOUT $10 INCLUDING THE BOW.

There is no catch. It’s just a matter of using serviceable but not fancy materials.

FOR THE BOW- A one and a quarter inch OD, 5’ piece of Schedule 40 PVC material makes a bow with a pull weight between 55# and 60# at 28”.

That’s too heavy for me with two gimpy shoulders so I used a ¾” OD piece of the same material. This made a 28# bow. This is on the light side but I have shot carp with it.

FOR THE BOW STRING - Drill a ¼” hole in either end about ¾” from the ends. For heavier weight bows take an old, long, traditional bowstring, mash the top loop together and push through the hole. Loop it over the end and the top is done. For the bottom mash the loop together, push it through the bottom hole, slide a flat washer over it, double the string and with the bow bent tie a knot in the doubled string. Where you tie the knot will determine brace height.

For lighter weight bows you can use 1/8” braided nylon cord. This requires an extra long string to make multiple wraps on the top limb to prevent the nylon from pulling through the wraps and lowering brace height. For details see the article, KID’S BOWS ON THE CHEAP by Curtis Horton.

FOR THE ARROW REST – Especially on the larger diameters I used a plastic bracelet
taped onto the bow with the bottom of the ring one inch above center. This ring sticks out on both sides of the bow making it work as both a right and left hand bow. An alternate rest can be made from a shower curtain rod ring taped to one side of the bow making it right or left hand only. This is because of the large diameter of larger PVC bows and the small diameter of the rings. You can also make either from heavy wire.

FOR THE ARROW – Any long enough arrow will work so long as it has a screw in field point. Fletching is not important. Unscrew the point ½ way out. Take a piece of wire smaller diameter than a coat hanger and bend it once, tightly, all the way around the point shank. Bend the end and press it into the point shank to form a circle. Bend the other end downward along the arrow shaft at an angle and clip it off leaving a ½” to a ¾” barb. Snug the point back onto the shaft and the arrow is about ready. Run a piece of cord with a knot in each end from in front of the nock to behind the point. Tape it in place just behind each knot. This cord will need to run along the bottom of the arrow. If you really want to go all out the cord can be run through holes drilled in the shaft and tied off, then taped.

FOR THE BOW FISHING REEL – I have used a variety of things which work well. My first reel was a plastic Dr. Pepper bottle with a hole cut about 1/3 of the way from the open end. The lower bow limb was run through the hole and the whole thing taped together.

I have since moved up in the world and now use an empty cashew can, again taped to the bow limb just below the grip. For both of these I used nylon cord I had on hand secured around the front end of the reel with a rubber band. The rubberband is removed just before the shot. On the end of the cord I tied a large snap swivel. Clip this onto the arrow cord so as the arrow is drawn the swivel rides toward the front of the arrow on the cord. At the shot the swivel will ride back toward the nock end. Stopped by the tape and now trailing behind the cord is now the guidance for the arrow.

After you shoot a carp, push the arrow through, remove the point and barb, withdraw arrow from carp and replace point. Just like the good old days.

To prevent people from sending me bow fishing gear I have to tell you that I do have better bow fishing gear than in this article. It’s just that I can’t help myself when it comes to making something serviceable out of junk.

Have fun – shoot carp. Curtis Horton
 

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Really interesting bow.

Erich
 

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That is cool. My boy is in the shop as we speak making fishing gear. I also plan to steal that idea for the kids in my home team meeting can throw a few together.
 
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