I seldom use a bow square. Why? Because I seldom find that an arrow will tune best if the nock point is square with the shelf or rest. It is just faster to tie on a nocking point after putting an arrow on and eyeballing the angle of the arrow as it comes off of the string. Some bows take quite a lot of angle and on other bows you have to look pretty closely to see that it has any angle at all. Tied on nock points can be adjusted like a nut on a bolt. You can start with one nock point, adjust it to where the arrow flies good, put a drop of super glue on to lock it into place, then tie on a lower nock point if that is something you prefer. No square or nocking pliers needed.

 

square is a technical starting point, then you can "know" 1/4" above 90*, or whatever, for future reference, if you are the type writing all the specs down in a note pad.
I'm mostly like you Brad, I can "see" square, and go from there.
Trapper, you are probably close to right........are you using the arrow square on 90* off shelf, or elevated a bit at the string?
I's unclear 'zactly what you had there.
most get better flight with nock a little higher than 90* to shelf of rest. betting you knew this. it varies how much above 90 for different people & styles and setups.

 

Agree with brad ,eyeball to start..adjust from there ...pretty easy with a few shots....

 

I also use a tie on adjustable nock point. I have a 12" piece of 3/8 dowel that I hold on the shelf with my left hand and then mark the serving with a Sharpie, black or gold depending on the color of the serving. Then I use the Sharpie to make a 1/8" ring around the serving. Gives me a nice reference when paper tuning the adjustment. BTW, I really like the TTT tie on nock point.

 

You can get a square for like $7 on Amazon, but anyone decent with their hands/eyes can square like you did I feel.

 

Get a T-square. Don't agree with my friend Steve on eyeballing a 90. But I'm pretty anal. On my current set up, I could notice the difference of one strand of serving in nocking point placement. I'll freely admit my longbow are not that fussy.

Bowmania

 

On my current set up, I could notice the difference of one strand of serving in nocking point placement. Bowmania

^^^^^
THIS. For me, anyways. And, what I've eye-balled in the past turned out not even close to 90° (as a starting point). My bow square lets me start out from a known location. When I was learning to test bare & fletched arrows at twenty yards, I was amazed dumbfounded at how little a change in nock height caused a noticeable change in vertical arrow impacts.

But whatever works for you, works for you.

 

Square is quick and easy. I probably use it more for tiller check. Yes, can be done with just a tape measure but square is easier

 

Two things.

1 - You dont need one. But they are so helpful, especially for a new shooter, that recommend you get one soon. They dont cost much and it makes everything easier.

2 GET RID OF THE TORPEDO LEVEL. Just use a rectangular object(like a heavy envelope even) and a ruler. If you think about it the torpedo level isnt helping.

 

You can watch the arrow to tell if your nock set is correct or not.

 

A square is handy to have. It’s easier to tie on nock sets to start in the position that they need to be in than trying to move them after. I tie a TTT adjustable nock point but when I find my tune I tie on more permanent nocks that are not going to move. The square is also handy for tiller measurements and brace height.

 

for $12, I have collected a handful, and keep one in my truck, one on my workbench, and one in my case. My engineering brain needs validation in numbers.

 

Okay, so I've been looking at 'em. There are T-shaped and L-shaped. Which is better? And what are the string clips for that run parallel to the string?

 

The silver clips squeeze around the string and hold it on the string. There’s a groove on there to hold it in place but most people push the clips past the groove and let the metal portion of the square rest directly on the string. I think the T shape red carbon express square is the best if you’re dealing in inches as it doesn’t have millimeters. The marks of the square are more legible than other squares I have seen.

 

 

I actually couldn’t remember the carbon express is L shaped

 

Interesting idea attaching to string.

 

Be sure to flip the square around to measure true BH. Don’t measure how you would for nock pts. “T” end should go to deepest part of the riser grip. Use it like a framing square, speed square , etc. in carpentry or fabrication would

 

It really doesn’t matter how you measure it. Just as long as you do it the same way. Some squares are set up to measure from the string to the Berger hole which should be the same as the deepest part of the grip

 

Thank you guys for all the advice and tips, ideas. I think I may have been overthinking the whole affair. Using ideas and methods given here, I feel like I got it. Well at least I got a knot of red embroidery floss whip finished and glued in a spot where my arrows fly the best. I don't think I could ask for more at this point.🤪

 

BTW, if it matters I'm shooting split finger, with the top of my arrow nock against the bottom of the Red knot. Works as good as I can shoot anyway. Mr. Casto's TP drills have also helped me drastically not only to build shooting confidence, and focus, but get my shoulder and back stronger. A special thanks to Mr. Casto for that.