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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
if you cut shorter they get stiffer, making it worse.......unless you increase front loading to ? 200-250-300 grains.
Bottom line a good thought might be to buy a set of .500 & .600 arrows. you will need them eventually, if you plan to keep shoooting 40 pounds.
a LOT OF FOLKs shoot .500s & .600s up to well higher pounds than 40.
Good luck & keep us posted.
.500 spine might not be a bad idea. I use a very similar .400 spine in my compound, so I could probably cop these down and repurpose them if necessary.

Would anyone be familiar with these? It seems like I could use something like this to further weaken the spine to test the idea. 75gr adapter would let me bump my total end weight up in neat steps without having to buy a bunch of different tip weights.

Thread-In Weight Adapters, 6-pack
 

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Cop, what your BH? if it high you can tight the ILF bolts back down and untwist the string to get back to the lower poundage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Cop, what your BH? if it high you can tight the ILF bolts back down and untwist the string to get back to the lower poundage?
It was pretty high to start with, 21.5 centimeters. The only brace height recommendations I found for this model were in cm, 19-22. 21.5 was where it got super quiet.

That said I think I've got past the riser contact issue finally. It's still louder than at 40#, but it's livable. It's also pretty temperamental about my form from a noise perspective. I'm not sure what that might indicate aside from I might be riding the very edge of "in tune" as was already mentioned. I think I'll put some 2016 aluminum arrows in my shopping cart for my next order. That should let me keep the weight up similar to what I have now, 490gr.
 

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2016s by the book are for a 53#-60# bow, at 28" - - so leave them longer & be ready to load them up a leetle bit up front.
If you want to run them more near 29" long 1816s or 1916s will spine more nearly right for 40#........by the book......
 

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Ya, 1916s for 40# with several light point weights for tuning. 1816s would tune also but are much more prone to bending. I have one 1916 perhaps 30 years old that has been shot thousands of times. - lbg
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I've been avoiding cutting the arrows that short. I've been running everything full length due to suggestions that it makes it easier to use the end of the arrow to aim. Which in the end drove the decision for 400 spines, as they are pushing 33". But if running shorter arrows makes this process easier...
 

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I DID NOT advocate running shorter arrows......I guess I only wanted you to know (in case you didn't already) THAT IF YOU DID CUT THE 2016s down they won't work for you unless you run ridiculously heavy fronts.
I prefer the arrows longer, myself, as you say for aiming purposes.......I guess it helps me a lot.....and I NEED the help haha.
actually, I just checked my cheat sheet on spines, if yours are 33" .400s they come out to A LITTLE OVER .600s at that length......which gets you in the nearly right ball park for what you want.
I still think longer .500s will get you better set.....like your 2016s.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I DID NOT advocate running shorter arrows......I guess I only wanted you to know (in case you didn't already) THAT IF YOU DID CUT THE 2016s down they won't work for you unless you run ridiculously heavy fronts.
I prefer the arrows longer, myself, as you say for aiming purposes.......I guess it helps me a lot.....and I NEED the help haha.
actually, I just checked my cheat sheet on spines, if yours are 33" .400s they come out to A LITTLE OVER .600s at that length......which gets you in the nearly right ball park for what you want.
I still think longer .500s will get you better set.....like your 2016s.....
Thank you for the clarification. I want back and reread your post, I completely misunderstood what you were saying the first time around. It's there any real difference in the camo hunter xx75 and the gamegetter's? I'll add them to my next order, though I may need to wait on a pay check or two before I can press the button.
 

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I have aluminum arrows & shoot them pretty regularly but I'm not afficiondo enough to answer your q on differences. I got to admit I've not damaged loomies enough to have fix/repair/discards etc. experience.
I think my loomies are tougher than my carbon arrows for sure. I think most of mine are xx75s but I do have some 2117 gamegetters too.
SEEMS like I have some longer 2016s, I can spare 4 if you'd like I can send to you.
 

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sorry for mis-lead - my darts are long 2013 camo xx75 not 2016 like I thought.
 

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I have the same riser and had the same issue when shooting my lightweight limbs on it. I tried all the standard stuff with minimal success, then I put a rubber O ring on the the ILF fitting on the limb. Made a huge difference. Just find an O ring that will fit over the fitting on the limb and slip the limb back in the riser. I think the O ring take up any extra space in the fitting. That space leaves room for movement leading to a slapping sound when the limbs move during release. At any rate, you can try the O ring trick for about 50 cents, if it doesn't work for you, you are not out much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I have the same riser and had the same issue when shooting my lightweight limbs on it. I tried all the standard stuff with minimal success, then I put a rubber O ring on the the ILF fitting on the limb. Made a huge difference. Just find an O ring that will fit over the fitting on the limb and slip the limb back in the riser. I think the O ring take up any extra space in the fitting. That space leaves room for movement leading to a slapping sound when the limbs move during release. At any rate, you can try the O ring trick for about 50 cents, if it doesn't work for you, you are not out much.
Sorry for the late response, but thank you for the suggestion and picture! It does seem cheap, easy and like it can't hurt.

I think at this point I'm going to leave this bow where it is at and order some 35# limbs for the Samick Sage. I tightened the bolts back down on the discovery and realized that once I added the brass inserts to the arrows, I really needed to drop down to 100gr tips to get it to shoot as well as the 150gr tips with the standard inserts. And since I am rather happy with either combo, I'm going to just leave this bow setup there for now.

I think I'm just to new to this game to try to much fiddling. I get frustrated and am too stubborn to just put it down and come back later. I've worn a blister under the callouses on my drawing hand from over doing it this week. Time to take a break from all the fiddling and let the blisters heal.
 
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