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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, I'm new to traditional archery, and the issue started when I relaxed the limb bolts to reduce the draw weight. With everything tightened down as far as it would go, the bow is very quiet when I do my part right. Unfortunately I just don't have muscles for it in that configuration, my scale registers it at 40# at my draw length of 28". Too much of a jump up from my 30# Samick Sage.

The bow is a Samick Discovery riser with Samick R1 35# limbs. The arrows are full length Gold Tip Warrior 400's (32.5"). I was shooting 150gr tips 40#@28" fine. When I reduced the draw weight the clean was so loud I was checking the riser and arrows for damage. I swapped to 50gr brass inserts to try and some the issue, and while it doesn't sound like something breaks everytime I shoot, it is still there. I tried increasing weight and brace height and it got worse, but I'm afraid to take more turns out the bolts. I've got it to where it shoots well, bare shaft, field points and broadheads land together (usually, my form is obviously not perfect), but the damnable noise just won't go away. Here is a couple of pictures of a 20yd group when I do my part. That is a broadhead, field point and bare shaft I used to get the brace height dialed in. Any help would be appreciated...

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Some risers will have manuals that will tell you how many turns you need to have on the limb bolts to be safe. Since many of us shoot risers without that information, I go with six turns, which is what I found in an old Hoyt riser manual. I have also heard to use the number of turns that matches the diameter of the bolt. I have not used the latter since six turns is pretty easy to remember.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Some risers will have manuals that will tell you how many turns you need to have on the limb bolts to be safe. Since many of us shoot risers without that information, I go with six turns, which is what I found in an old Hoyt riser manual. I have also heard to use the number of turns that matches the diameter of the bolt. I have not used the latter since six turns is pretty easy to remember.
Thanks! My riser did not come with a manual and I've been unable to Google one. I was going with 10% less than 40# should be roughly 36#, which is roughly where I am at on my old archery scale of unknown calibration and accuracy. Also, I don't have a draw board so it's a bit of a crap shoot on how repeatable and accurate I am. I might try another turn and see how it goes.
 

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not related to limb bolts but be sure your cap screws are snug on the ILF limb fittings. INSIDE the fitting is a spring and pin.
Can remove those & reinstall caps - shoot without spring & pin. THEY CAN MAKE NOISE....
If tht helps you can put some white lithium grease inside the fitting & reinstall spring & pin & cap.
 

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ILF is most efficient with limb bolts down tight or 1/4 turn out. I find the noisey otherwise.
Shoot the 40# in increasing number of shots per day to build up draw weight
 

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" I don't have a draw board so it's a bit of a crap shoot on how repeatable and accurate "
When measuring it by yourself you can put a clothes pin (or a card?) on the shaft at your draw-length and stop drawing the arrow when it touches the back of the riser. - John
 

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With one of my riser and limb combinations I got limb pocket noise when I went more than 3 turns out. I always figured the angle of the limb was causing the bushing or limb butts to scrape against the riser. Along with what stevelong and the others have said, I'd look to see if there's any contact between the limbs and limb pockets and maybe try putting some grease around the bushing/detente to see if that helps.
 

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FYI on one of the other archery forums there's a thread titled "Noisey ILF? Give this a try".
The OP found that putting an 'O-ring' around the ILF fitting got rid of his noise problem. - John
 

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centershot on archery talk said he put a O'ring on the ILF detent. if it's like the sage i put a 1/6" layer of red silicone padding under each limb on my son bow, which quieted the sound.
 

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not-snug-fitting limb bolt bushing could also be the culprit; snugged down it can't rattle, but backed out a turn or more it could.
 

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You could just get a lighter set of limbs and snug them down. With Sage that is not very costly, When you get fitter you may be able switch back, snugged down. It would not be a waste because a bow or limbs in the mid 30s of draw weight is what many of us can use for off season and form practice all of our lives. - lbg
 

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I was getting some noise on the wf21 and when I checked the ilf pockets were so shallow that the dovetail of the button was making contact with the bottom of the pocket. This was preventing the limb from contacting the riser fully in this area. Fortunately. , I had a button that was shorter than others so I used that one and it's much quieter. Anyone else notice this on the cd archery pockets? Another good reason every archer needs a metal lathe...easy to trim those buttons
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I ended up running the bolts all the way in and then running the bottom limb out 4 turns. Then I ran the top bolt out to where I got the same tiller measurement as all tightened down, about 1mm negative tiller. From there I took out most of twist from the string. It sounded about the same as when I started shooting, but it was shooting really well. So I decided to shoot a couple of sets of 3 and then adding 2 or three twists and another couple of sets. Rinse and repeat. I've got it to where about 1 in 3 shots are quiet, without the ping, before I ran out of gas. I ended up with a blister on my index finger so I might let it rest a couple of days. I think I'm close, but the brace height is pretty high. Higher than recommended from what I can tell, I'm at about 8 3/4" for a 62" bow. Is it safe to go up to 9", or should I look at making some minor tiller adjustments instead?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You could just get a lighter set of limbs and snug them down. With Sage that is not very costly, When you get fitter you may be able switch back, snugged down. It would not be a waste because a bow or limbs in the mid 30s of draw weight is what many of us can use for off season and form practice all of our lives. - lbg
Honestly as much fiddling as I am doing I almost wish I had just bought a 35# set of limbs for the Sage. But I feel like I am just so damn close at this point I don't want to give up. Also, I've got a lot more confidence in this bow than the Sage. I just shoot it better for whatever reason.

Eventually I think I'm going to get a nicer mid-30's setup for most of my practice. But for now I think a 30# and 35# setup is probably better, and cheaper, for me in the long run.
 

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That pinging you are hereing may be your arrows hitting your riser. Four hundred spine is pretty stiff for the poundage you are shooting.
 

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I have a Discovery also with 30lb R1 limbs. Is the sound a loud "karang" like the limbs are harshly seating into the limb pockets? I had that constantly on the first shot of the day. I put some gaffer's tape on the bottom of the limb pockets to shim the gap. The only other sound I get is a buzzing when an upper L/R adjuster screw wants to wiggle loose a hair.
 

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I was getting some noise on the wf21 and when I checked the ilf pockets were so shallow that the dovetail of the button was making contact with the bottom of the pocket. This was preventing the limb from contacting the riser fully in this area. Fortunately. , I had a button that was shorter than others so I used that one and it's much quieter. Anyone else notice this on the cd archery pockets? Another good reason every archer needs a metal lathe...easy to trim those buttons
Anton I have had this happen with some warfs I've made.Making the dovetail cut deeper in the riser was my fix.Your fix with your lath sounds better.
Did you let CD know of that problem ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That pinging you are hereing may be your arrows hitting your riser. Four hundred spine is pretty stiff for the poundage you are shooting.
That was what I was thinking as well, especially since it goes away with the limbs bolted all the way down. That's also why I went from the standard 12gr insert to a 50gr brass insert first thing after loosening the bolts and drop the weight.

Also, the arrows are very long and very front heavy at this point. 32-5/8" and almost 20% FOC with the brass insert.
 

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yeh on this particulr riser, snugged down, the ILF fitting might fit well in riser channel, but with bolts out a few turns it might be relaxing some at the limb rocker/ILF fitting area, to the point where it rattles.
OR snugged down your arrow spine is close enough to good "tune" it passes riser well, but bolts out a few turns arrow is now too stiff for the "new" lighter pounds. Arrow whacking riser as it passes. Good call MAMBA.
At 40# snugged down it's just barely on the ragged edge of too stiff but not noisy.....turning bolts out completes the cycle to fully out of tune TOO STIFF.
Theories here.
I HAVE READ as someone mentioned above some people see the lateral adjustment screws loosen & fall out. They could be rattling ...
 

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if you cut shorter they get stiffer, making it worse.......unless you increase front loading to ? 200-250-300 grains.
Bottom line a good thought might be to buy a set of .500 & .600 arrows. you will need them eventually, if you plan to keep shoooting 40 pounds.
a LOT OF FOLKs shoot .500s & .600s up to well higher pounds than 40.
Good luck & keep us posted.
 
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