bow hand position
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Rusty, that is why I like Jager grips or other custom type grips. With a sharper edge that fits the hand, I find that getting a consistent hand grip is easier.
Alan
Alan
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998 Posts
This on the palm side (these were around 50 years ago)
http://www.3riversarchery.com/the+ridgeback+grip+locator_i5401_baseitem.html
and or this on the back for a finger locator (little piece of leather stuck on with dbl back tape works well too)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/370542328448?lpid=82
never ceases to amaze me how much compound grips have evolved but single string grips are stuck in the age of rounded of 2x4s.
http://www.3riversarchery.com/the+ridgeback+grip+locator_i5401_baseitem.html
and or this on the back for a finger locator (little piece of leather stuck on with dbl back tape works well too)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/370542328448?lpid=82
never ceases to amaze me how much compound grips have evolved but single string grips are stuck in the age of rounded of 2x4s.
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2,355 Posts
I use a 3/8" wide strip of skateboard tape on the back of my grips.
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687 Posts
A few things helped me along with what's already been posted - shoot off the riser (riser edge can consistently be kept along your lifeline) for a while before going back to a grip, use a finger sling, focus on a relaxed hand just before expanding to release ... easy to write not so easy to master - hope that's of some use - M
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1,065 Posts
Before I place an arrow on the string I let my arm go slack an let the bow hang loosely off the sling for a second.
My sling is a small dog collar that is not connected to the bow,it just wraps around the riser.
All I do then is bounce the bow into my hand an lightly close it.
That puts the bow in exactly the same place every time.
If I then come to full draw and I haven't got it right, I instantly know by how the bow sits in my now open hand.
Get it wrong,,,,,,let down and reset.
Funny thing is that people that see me do this every time think I'm checking my feet as I look down, because I can't feel them properly due to nerve damage in my back and I've told people I'm checking my foot position every time, which I do at the same time.
John.
My sling is a small dog collar that is not connected to the bow,it just wraps around the riser.
All I do then is bounce the bow into my hand an lightly close it.
That puts the bow in exactly the same place every time.
If I then come to full draw and I haven't got it right, I instantly know by how the bow sits in my now open hand.
Get it wrong,,,,,,let down and reset.
Funny thing is that people that see me do this every time think I'm checking my feet as I look down, because I can't feel them properly due to nerve damage in my back and I've told people I'm checking my foot position every time, which I do at the same time.
John.
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5,613 Posts
Have you used this gizmo..... ?
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2,563 Posts
I wonder if it has to do with the fact that with a compound, one is holding a fraction of the draw weight at full draw and with a recurve you have it all?
Although, there are some guys on here that remove the grip and apply a layer of grip tape.
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117 Posts
For us longbow shooters who can't really use a sling, I wonder if a small O-ring on the back side of the riser would help as a "locator" for the index finger? I don't want a full grip, but I can't shoot open handed without losing the bow. This way, I can curl my fingers around the grip and get the same position every time.
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9,568 Posts
I always used a finger sling with a Flatbow. Maybe not with an ELB but certainly with an AFB.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Perhaps I am an exception, but I have never had consistency problems.
I come almost to full draw with the heel of my palm on the grip.
Last inch or so, I go full high wrist, with the wrist locked and the grip sitting between my extended thumb and index finger.
Impossible to torque bow with a locked wrist and the grip sitting in a "V"
Other advantage (for me), is I get more than a full inch of extra draw length.
I come almost to full draw with the heel of my palm on the grip.
Last inch or so, I go full high wrist, with the wrist locked and the grip sitting between my extended thumb and index finger.
Impossible to torque bow with a locked wrist and the grip sitting in a "V"
Other advantage (for me), is I get more than a full inch of extra draw length.
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