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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
LOL, I was thinking, why could you not make slight angled shims to go between the riser and limbs allowing you to tighten the limbs down. This would be quiter than ILF. You could have a shim kit with every bow and use the appropriate shims for the tiller you want. It could be made of hard plastic... maybe a 1/16 thick to varying thicknesses. This way you could get the "shim kit" and correct out of tiller, adjust tiller, etc. The bow I am shooting now is tillered for split finger and tillers nock very hi. This could be corrected by changing the shims. All limbs could be targeted to be equal and fine tuned with the shims. This would also fill the look I hate of the ILF sideview voids. Thoughts. Maybe on next years new Border? LOL
 

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I like 1-piece bows, bolt-downs, DAS & ILF in no particular order.
I sure don't mind the LOOK of DAS & ILF, they flat-out work, and work WELL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The bow I am shooting, LOL dating, tillers bad nock hi. Not that I would do so, but it looks like you could add a piece of paper under the upper portion of the limb "block". I call it that because it is not a pocket. This would act as a shim to change the tiller. But... It would not have a solid base for the limb to rest.
 

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No grinding, just an assortment with each bow. How do you like that new riser? Is it a shooter?
To get the micro adjustments of a threaded bolt you would be grinding :)

I have two favorite bows right now and is one of them

It is very quiet and performs better than some of my custom bows costing twice as much

What's not to like :)

Needless to say I am very impressed

Here was a video I did a few weeks ago when the first shipment of these came in

They sold out in like 2 days

Mine is a Proto type and I have had it since summer

 

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LOL, I was thinking, why could you not make slight angled shims to go between the riser and limbs allowing you to tighten the limbs down. This would be quiter than ILF. You could have a shim kit with every bow and use the appropriate shims for the tiller you want. It could be made of hard plastic... maybe a 1/16 thick to varying thicknesses. This way you could get the "shim kit" and correct out of tiller, adjust tiller, etc. The bow I am shooting now is tillered for split finger and tillers nock very hi. This could be corrected by changing the shims. All limbs could be targeted to be equal and fine tuned with the shims. This would also fill the look I hate of the ILF sideview voids. Thoughts. Maybe on next years new Border? LOL
Not needed. The look grows on you the better you shoot with one.
 

· j-san = Jason
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I can envision the shims being a can of worms nobody wants to open. To accommodate the near infinite amount of adjustment you can get in the ILF system, you would need a pretty big bag of shims to go with each riser.

If you don't like the gap in an open pocket riser, you can try filling it with a wedge of foam rubber. Measure and cut a wedge that is thicker than what you need. Unstring the bow and turn limb bolts out to min preload, remove limbs, insert wedge, reinstall limbs, and turn bolts back to desired preload, and string up bow. That method will compress the wedge in the gap so it won't go anywhere and also create a nice firm contact between riser and limb. I did that once to see if it would quiet down the bow some more, but it really didn't do anything other than limit my adjustments and be a hassle when taking down and reassembling the bow.

JP, does your Black Magic riser have a Berger hole? It's a very handsome riser.
 

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The bow I am shooting, LOL dating, tillers bad nock hi. Not that I would do so, but it looks like you could add a piece of paper under the upper portion of the limb "block". I call it that because it is not a pocket. This would act as a shim to change the tiller. But... It would not have a solid base for the limb to rest.
Put the top limb on the bottom and see how it shoots?
 

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I can envision the shims being a can of worms nobody wants to open. To accommodate the near infinite amount of adjustment you can get in the ILF system, you would need a pretty big bag of shims to go with each riser.

If you don't like the gap in an open pocket riser, you can try filling it with a wedge of foam rubber. Measure and cut a wedge that is thicker than what you need. Unstring the bow and turn limb bolts out to min preload, remove limbs, insert wedge, reinstall limbs, and turn bolts back to desired preload, and string up bow. That method will compress the wedge in the gap so it won't go anywhere and also create a nice firm contact between riser and limb. I did that once to see if it would quiet down the bow some more, but it really didn't do anything other than limit my adjustments and be a hassle when taking down and reassembling the bow.

JP, does your Black Magic riser have a Berger hole? It's a very handsome riser.
Thanks

It does not but I have a drill :)
 

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Tried that, but the tiller was worse. Went from lower limb being 1/4 out to 1/2 out. I wonder if you could put a piece of paper between the riser and limb at the closest point to the center of the bow?
Bob Gordon told me once that an aluminum can, cut up with scissors, is a good way to shim a limb out tiny amounts...Remember, .005 thickness shim at the limb butt can really add up, once You factor in the amount it will change the angle of the limb at the tip....Trigonometry, and all that....I say try it, and see how it works out for Ya....Jim
 

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At least JParanees's bow is in the shower. When I get a new bow it "sleeps" on the bed between my wife and me for a few days
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Bob Gordon told me once that an aluminum can, cut up with scissors, is a good way to shim a limb out tiny amounts...Remember, .005 thickness shim at the limb butt can really add up, once You factor in the amount it will change the angle of the limb at the tip....Trigonometry, and all that....I say try it, and see how it works out for Ya....Jim
Any chance that it could hurt the limb? Not resting the full length on the riser limb base? I know that ILF's don't rest fully.... figured them to be engineered to do so
 
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