Bottom hen feather wear, nock point too low?

845 Views 21 Replies 10 Participants Last post by Yonas, 15 d ago

Yonas

Discussion Starter · 19 d ago

Hello,

Today I noticed my arrows bottom hen feathers are worn-out a bit. I think my nock point is low but need some advice. I can see some wearing on the furry self as well (only at the first half and closer to the side plate) I use only the original plastic side plate plus the original furry without the extra spacers. (Hoyt Satori)

I shoot cheap carbon arrows skylon 700 spine 30” carbon to carbon with 90gr head in this phase . 28,5”DL 32-33# on fingers. Brace high 8.5”, positive 1/8 tiller. 3 under

Now point set to 3/8” (bottom of the brass nock point), I have a second bottom brass nock point installed.

Should I increase only the nock point to 1/2 ? If not the nock point what else can be? A higher draw elbow can effect this kind of things?

Thank you in advance!

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hey Mister

· #2 · 19 d ago

Without actually seeing your shot, it's hard to say.
Personally, I prefer fly fishing line for nock points. They make it great for tuning because you can turn them like a nut to adjust the nock.
No special tools required and 1 spool will last you and a couple buddies a lifetime.
I've only had 1 come loose because I didn't tie it tight enough.

Reactions: 1

c_m_shooter

· #3 · 19 d ago

If you are shooting 3 under, move the nock point up. Nock end of the arrow should be above level by 1/8 or 1/4 inch. It is easier to start with it too high and slowly bring it down during the tuning process.

Reactions: 2

hey Mister

· #4 · 19 d ago

Without actually seeing your shot, it's hard to say.
Personally, I prefer fly fishing line for nock points. They make it great for tuning because you can turn them like a nut to adjust the nock.
No special tools required and 1 spool will last you and a couple buddies a lifetime.
I've only had 1 come loose because I didn't tie it tight enough.

Arcus

· #5 · 19 d ago

hey Mister said:
They make it great for tuning because you can turn them like a nut to adjust the nock.

If your finger is on it while drawing and shooting, how does it keep from rotating?

Nuthatch

· #6 · 19 d ago

I'd suggest that you go to an even tiller for 3 under. See if that takes care of the problem. If not, start moving the nock points up. Using a bareshaft at 10 yds is a good way to see how your arrow is coming off the string.

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Bowmania

· #7 · 19 d ago

I'm with Nuthatch. Even tiller should help, but I might guess a high elbow at full draw.

Bowmania

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hey Mister

· #8 · 19 d ago

Arcus said:
If your finger is on it while drawing and shooting, how does it keep

Arcus said:
If your finger is on it while drawing and shooting, how does it keep from rotating?

These are known as a "nail" knot.
When tied correctly they will not spin, but will turn when forced.
Never had an issue with unwanted rotation.

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Glynn

· #9 · 19 d ago

That kind of wear can occur from a slightly stiff tune when the back of the arrow doesn't quite clear the shelf.

Or... the tune is acceptable but you just need to rotate your fletching a bit to get it over the outside of the shelf.

Reactions: 1

Yonas

Discussion Starter · #10 · 19 d ago

Nuthatch said:
I'd suggest that you go to an even tiller for 3 under. See if that takes care of the problem. If not, start moving the nock points up. Using a bareshaft at 10 yds is a good way to see how your arrow is coming off the string.

Bowmania said:
I'm with Nuthatch. Even tiller should help, but I might guess a high elbow at full draw.

Bowmania

Thanks, I shoot recurve only ~3 weeks so I technically I can modify the tiller but my form is still not perfect (maybe even not really close

) and don’t want to do too much modification just curious what can be a problem. Hopefully some weeks and I will be consistent enough to do start the real tuning. Until that I just want to learn and understand the things.

Glynn said:
That kind of wear can occur from a slightly stiff tune when the back of the arrow doesn't quite clear the shelf.

Or... the tune is acceptable but you just need to rotate your fletching a bit to get it over the outside of the shelf.

This is my first set of arrows and bought it for the first practice session only. I already destroyed some

do you think it can be stiff?

Later I plan to order some aluminium 1816 but before it I will post here because here is not available on stock so I have to order minimum a dozen.

Kelly

· #11 · 19 d ago

Try cock feather in for a few shots to see if arrow flight has improved? I shoot all of my bows cock feather in and have for decades.

Oh yes, I also agree with zero tiller or at the most 1/16" and add some of them spacers to bring the arrow just shy of center. That 700 is a pretty skinny arrow.

Reactions: 1

hey Mister

· #12 · 19 d ago

Yonas,
When I saw your "3 week" comment, it got me thinking...
Did you put the rest on yourself?
If so, did you leave a gap between the right edge of the rest and the riser where the strike plate is?
There should be a gap but nothing too big...maybe 1/8"-ish.

Yonas

Discussion Starter · #13 · 19 d ago

hey Mister said:
Yonas,
When I saw your "3 week" comment, it got me thinking...
Did you put the rest on yourself?
If so, did you leave a gap between the right edge of the rest and the riser where the strike plate is?
There should be a gap but nothing too big...maybe 1/8"-ish.

Yes I set up everything for myself. Yes I think there is enough gap, but never measured.

Gesture Finger Wrist Thumb Electric blue

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Jim Casto Jr

· #14 · 18 d ago

hey Mister said:
... There should be a gap but nothing too big...maybe 1/8"-ish.

Why?

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hey Mister

· #15 · 18 d ago

Jim Casto Jr said:
Why?

Why not?

Kelly

· #16 · 18 d ago

Because it’s not necessary, the bottom hen feather will never go thru there. By the time the feather reaches the shelf area it starts going through paradox and is out away from sight window over near outside of shelf-nowhere near the inside of shelf.

Reactions: 2

hey Mister

· #17 · 18 d ago

Kelly said:
Because it’s not necessary, the bottom hen feather will never go thru there. By the time the feather reaches the shelf area it starts going through paradox and is out away from sight window over near outside of shelf-nowhere near the inside of shelf.

Maybe for a non center cut riser.

Jim Casto Jr

· #18 · 17 d ago

If the fletching is hitting the shelf anywhere, when shooting with fingers, your arrows are too stiff.

Reactions: 3

c_m_shooter

· #19 · 17 d ago

hey Mister said:
Maybe for a non center cut riser.

It doesn't matter where the riser is cut. If you shoot with fingers, the arrow will flex and needs to clear the riser.

Reactions: 1

Jim Casto Jr

· #20 · 17 d ago (Edited)

hey Mister said:
... There should be a gap but nothing too big...maybe 1/8"-ish.

hey Mister,

When you said, "... There should be a gap but noting too big... maybe 1/8"-ish." I simply was curious as to your reasoning for that and was a bit perlexed with your, "Why not?" reply. I found out with your reply to Kelly, "Maybe for a non center cut riser."

You are apparently under the impression that the fletching will go down that channel and will eliminate fletching wear. That is not correct with a properly tuned arrow when shooting with fingers--a release and center shot, yes.

This video will show you how a properly tuned arrow will flex completely around the riser and the fletching will NEVER touch the shelf. If you're close on spine, you can sometimes rotate the nock, such as cock feather in, to eliminate wear.

(EDIT): It has been my observation, over the years, that most "Trad" guys shoot arrows that are waaaaay too stiff--unfortunately.

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