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Hi friends, I’ve read and seen videos about this subject but just want to clarify once and for all the procedure:

1) shoot current fletched arrows at 20yd using the correct crawl for that distance
2) compare that with bareshaft of exactly the same configuration (minus fletching) shot exactly the same way
3) if bareshaft flies right of the group, it’s weak. Say, I will cut it to stiffen up.
4) cut bareshaft, say ½ “
5) here’s the confusing part: do I shoot and compare this new bareshaft to the original fletch arrows at the original crawl? Or do I cut and fletch another shaft and compare the two new ones together with a new crawl?

Thanks for the help.
 

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Barefaced tightropewalker
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Once you are happy that the arrows are weak, cut all arrows and bareshafts. It's a comparative test so the arrows and bareshafts need to be the same.
 

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Once you are happy that the arrows are weak, cut all arrows and bareshafts. It's a comparative test so the arrows and bareshafts need to be the same.
Personally I'd cut some of the arrows - say 2 bare and 2 fetched - really really hard to glue that cut stuff back on LOL

Matt
 

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I'd not be cutting more than 1/4" unless they are very weak, I'd also try them at a few different crawls just to be sure.
Generally I set my bow at minimum preload when I'm cutting arrows since I can then bring them into tune with the tiller bolts if I have to.

There are other ways of making them stiffer as well if you don't want to go with lighter points or shorter arrows.

-Grant
 

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Before I cut, I verify with a lighter tip to see if I am close. This reveals whether to start with 1/4 or 1/2. Here recently, I have been amazed at what I could accomplish with the plunger tension
Now that's advice worth listening too! And I also like Matt P… It's a bear trying to glue the piece back on after ya cut it too short! :mistake: :)

Tom
 
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