it depends on several things - but my basic rule FOR ME goes "something" like this - .400s for 50-55 # - .500s for 45-50# - .600s for 38-42ish # - - .700s for low-mid 30-35# range. these are a bit ball-park.
those .700s might sometimes need to be .800s so I run heavier points sometimes on .700s......I never had any .800s. & the .500s-.600s can cross over a little too with either heavier or lighter points.
Sometimes a certain bow will go outside the normal spine requirements due to either NOT being a very strong bow-for-pounds, or if it has a better-than-normal cast-for-pounds.
I second the Goldtip warriors, I was paying more for the Goldtip Ultralight Entrada's but they are the exact same arrows, just not as fancy of a logo job on the Warriors. The 700, 600, and 500 spine come 30 inches long so I don't have to cut them, that is the perfect length for me. I shoot the 700 spine with a 125 grain tip (322 grains total arrow weight) out of my 32 pound recurve, the 600 spine with a 150 grain (364 grains total) tip out of my 35 pound longbow, and 500 spine with a 200 grain tip/broadhead (456 grains total) with my 40 pound hunting limbs. They all bareshaft perfect with those tips and limb combinations. They are $5 a shaft from Lancaster.
The Entrada or Velocity is definitely a noticable step up from the Warrior in my experience.
I'd be running the 700 in those bows, maybe 600 if you want to keep it around 10gpp with a full length arrow.
Back in the Golden Age, when those bows were made, they were shot with aluminum arrows and that is a natural match in weight, with target points, of which there are several choices in different weights. They are more consistent in weight, spine and accuracy than carbons ones except perhaps for the most costly target shafts. They are easily tuned with common hand tools. The chart above is right, with some interpretation if your draw length is up to 28", generally meaning 1816 shafts. With a longer draw length, which I have, 1916s left full length may be a better choice. They are a good deal tougher, some of mine are 30 years old and still in service for practice, with a bit of mending and straightening. If they are damaged up front you can trim them a bit and increase point weight and they may still group with their mates. Straightening tools are available but 1916s rarely need them in target use. For field archery when I was in the Rocky Mountains I did a fair amount of straightening. They don't call them rocky for nothing. Back here in Californy the mountains are more congenial.
1914s, mentioned in the clip above are a good compromise, and longer than 1816s. I was told that when they came out back in the 1960s or 70s scores at the nationals went up 20 points.
The best target points are NIBBS which have a long shank to strengthen the fore part of the shaft. Very tough.
I have owned a couple of dozen of those old target recurves and still have several Hoyts. I have found all the good brands to be among the most lovely and sweet shooting bows ever made, able to hang close to the most costly modern bows with the gadgets left off. Enjoy yours. Kindly let us know how it goes. - lbg
I happen to have an old Samick Mind 10, wich is AFAIK a rebranded Wing bow.
The lims have a Wing logo, and the very mediocre arrows that came with it were Wing-branded as well.
With 70" and 30#, I shoot 1716 Easton Platinum+, 29" and 70gn tip.
These bows usually don't tolerate Fastflite strings, nor low gpp ratios.