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3 under woes, Hoyt Gamemaster 2

301 Views 6 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Daniel L
I'm tuning a Hoyt Gamemaster 2 for 3 under. It is very quiet when shooting split-finger, with close to perfect bareshaft flight. No silencers on the bow at all and it is quiet enough for hunting. When shooting 3 under it makes a nasty twang and bareshaft shows a bit weak (nock left). The problem is I cannot score consistently with split-finger, whereas I hit where I am looking with 3 under. I suppose "aiming the arrow" is easier with my face and body type when anchoring 3 under.
As far as I've found out, this riser was designed primarily with elevated rest in mind, so I tried a Centerest Flipper as well as building up a shelf bump approximately to the elevation of the rest. Also, 1/2" nock height. Bareshaft is decent, the loud twang is still there, the bow again doesn't feel right after the shot with 3 under. So limb timing is off.
Then I looked at the tiller. Default tiller is ~1/8" positive, or even less. I've tried shimming around the bottom limb bolt with a business card (the shim is 1/2" long in the gap, U-shaped around the bolt):
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This resulted in 1/32" positive tiller. Noise and vibration got a little bit better. So I would need to shim more.
Is it OK to shim this kind of limb system like this or not? I don't really like how the limb now only rocks around the alignment pin, and there's a gap everywhere else, compared to a very solid flat contact without a shim:
Automotive mirror Wood Tints and shades Rear-view mirror Vehicle door


On the other hand, proper ILF risers and limbs are designed to take similar adjustments.

I've tried flipping the limbs, a little less twang, but barely. I suppose tiller difference is so minimal that flipping would not result in major change.

What sort of helped is raising nocking point way higher to 3/4", which messes with bareshaft. I suppose I'll just have to deal with the noise, perhaps add some silencers.

Basically, looking for pointers how to safely adjust this bow, which I really like, to be better timed for 3 under.

Gamemaster 2, 55# limbs, 28" draw, arrows 490 gn.
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I'm a big GM2 fan and I have tried a ton of ILF limbs by pressing out the bushings. I shoot a fixed crawl off the shelf (3 under) - with furniture pads to build out centershot.
You are limited in adjustment as you have found... I flip the limbs occasionally, but mostly I have done a few things:

1. Put some thin rubber adhesive sheet on the limb pad area.
2. String silencers - cat whiskers or dynapuffs
3. Try other limbs - the original Trad Tech Black Max series fit really well. 3Rivers DAS branded limbs also very good and not too expensive.

I tried loosening the blots and shimming but didn't like the looseness. It's designed to shot as a bolt down.
My GM2 is currently wearing 3Rivers DAS Long Bow limbs and I have had Blackmax recurve limbs (and others) on it before.

Eventually you might find you just need to move to a ILF set up.
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I'm a big GM2 fan and I have tried a ton of ILF limbs by pressing out the bushings. I shoot a fixed crawl off the shelf (3 under) - with furniture pads to build out centershot.
You are limited in adjustment as you have found... I flip the limbs occasionally, but mostly I have done a few things:

1. Put some thin rubber adhesive sheet on the limb pad area.
2. String silencers - cat whiskers or dynapuffs
3. Try other limbs - the original Trad Tech Black Max series fit really well. 3Rivers DAS branded limbs also very good and not too expensive.

I tried loosening the blots and shimming but didn't like the looseness. It's designed to shot as a bolt down.
My GM2 is currently wearing 3Rivers DAS Long Bow limbs and I have had Blackmax recurve limbs (and others) on it before.

Eventually you might find you just need to move to a ILF set up.
Thanks for the pointers. I've got some Dyneema rope and will make the puffs. Since the time I've made this thread, I've kind of found an acceptable configuration - build the shelf up with leather and Velcro on top to the bottom of the Berger hole and run the nock at 5/8" - this gives good bareshaft at 5 m and less noise. Looks like I've come close to the designed pull point on the string.

For the side plate I run a flat head screw backed with a set screw, for adjustability, again Velcro on the screwhead.

I am not sure about rubber on the limb pads - did it make any difference for you? I tend to keep changes minimal.
Have you padded the recurve tips (string grooves)?

I might try other limbs, but I like the bow as it is - a simple efficient do-it-all bow that I don't have to baby. I've bought it used, it has some marks and rubs, so I don't have to worry about it anymore and use it hard in practice and in the woods. Tec riser is a proven design plus for me as well.
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The adhesive sheet is quite thin (1mm) and I've found it helps a little to reduce some vibes, and provide a nice seating for the limbs. I'm sure you could use felt or moleskin too.

If the dynapuffs don't improve enough, then get some bushings and try some other limbs - you might be surprised how much difference it makes.

I've held.held onto my GM2 amidst my ILF risers... I still enjoy shooting it!
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The adhesive sheet is quite thin (1mm) and I've found it helps a little to reduce some vibes, and provide a nice seating for the limbs. I'm sure you could use felt or moleskin too.

If the dynapuffs don't improve enough, then get some bushings and try some other limbs - you might be surprised how much difference it makes.

I've held.held onto my GM2 amidst my ILF risers... I still enjoy shooting it!
What kind of adhesive sheet did you use and where did you buy it? Thanks!
What kind of adhesive sheet did you use and where did you buy it? Thanks!
Check out the conversion kit by sosa on this link:
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What kind of adhesive sheet did you use and where did you buy it? Thanks!
I was in a hardware store in Tokyo so not exactly easy to get! But this stuff from 3 rivers is similar... a little thinner (I have a pack, but haven't needed it yet):
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