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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Along with archery, I am also obsessed with blades and sharpening.
Our choices are not amazing imo. Tuffheads seem about the perfect head beyond being single bevel and never finding them in stock.
What are some other options with similar mech. advantages?
Ive got a pile of vpa 2 and 3 blade. 2 blades I can put a pretty nice edge on. Thing is they are pretty short. Id probably be content if they made em 3 to 1… (probably a lie). Simmons are bad ass but that sweep is pretty aggressive and they aint very tuff.
Side note. The glue on heads snd screw in adapters. Are they hard to true up? Ive got impact resistant epoxy that Im sure would create a great bond. Then I could get a pile of the tuffhead glue ons. Just am apprehensive as to getting that long head spinning true.
 

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I have not had much problems with glue ons and getting them to spin true. I do think screw on points are a weak point tho. I make tapered outserts for my skinny shafts but tapered inserts could be a possibility too. I came across another company making them. Cant remember their name. Unless you are hunting Cape buffalo I think the expensive machined points are overkill. Nothing wrong with the old stamped and laminated broad heads like zwicky and grizzlies
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have not had much problems with glue ons and getting them to spin true. I do think screw on points are a weak point tho. I make tapered outserts for my skinny shafts but tapered inserts could be a possibility too. I came across another company making them. Cant remember their name. Unless you are hunting Cape buffalo I think the expensive machined points are overkill. Nothing wrong with the old stamped and laminated broad heads like zwicky and grizzlies
Never shot the laminated heads. Grizzlies look like something Id grab a pack of.
I honestly do not mind a high price point. Id pay a pretty penny for a double bevel 3” long vpa. Though I am sure you are correct as to many of these heads being overkill. I am big believer in super sharp tapered heads and the reaction to the shot Ive experienced with deer. I just want a heavy ,simple, long head.
Those Grizzlies bruins look to be right up my alley.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have not had much problems with glue ons and getting them to spin true. I do think screw on points are a weak point tho. I make tapered outserts for my skinny shafts but tapered inserts could be a possibility too. I came across another company making them. Cant remember their name. Unless you are hunting Cape buffalo I think the expensive machined points are overkill. Nothing wrong with the old stamped and laminated broad heads like zwicky and grizzlies
I ran outserts on some black eagle Deep impacts for a year or so. Always ended up with a wobble after a bit so I gave up and went back to inserts and standard diameter. Never understood how or why, even with the aftermarket steel ones.
Do you use hot melt to fasten glue ons to adapters? I am really fond of the idea of being able to adjust the weight of a head with different adapters. Also would make indexing broadhead easy. just would worry about the bond holding up. If hot melt is a practiced and proven method Im going to order a pile of different heads and adaptors. Looks like a guy could potentially build a 400 grain head with this method.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I lied. Tuffheads just came up in stock. Stated at 20 something bucks. Figured they had the best 3 pack deal on earth. Put six in my cart and 155 bucks popped up. Going to grab some single bevel grizzlies. Similar construction but 40 something bucks vs 155 just doesnt make sense. Excited to polish up those big ol bevels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I ran outserts on some black eagle Deep impacts for a year or so. Always ended up with a wobble after a bit so I gave up and went back to inserts and standard diameter. Never understood how or why, even with the aftermarket steel ones.
Do you use hot melt to fasten glue ons to adapters? I am really fond of the idea of being able to adjust the weight of a head with different adapters. Also would make indexing broadhead easy. just would worry about the bond holding up. If hot melt is a practiced and proven method Im going to order a pile of different heads and adaptors. Looks like a guy could potentially build a 400 grain head with this method.
I have not had much problems with glue ons and getting them to spin true. I do think screw on points are a weak point tho. I make tapered outserts for my skinny shafts but tapered inserts could be a possibility too. I came across another company making them. Cant remember their name. Unless you are hunting Cape buffalo I think the expensive machined points are overkill. Nothing wrong with the old stamped and laminated broad heads like zwicky and grizzlies
I misunderstood you on the outserts. I read it now as an outsert that is tapered to accept a glue on. Makes a lot more sense. I see those on the tuffhead site atleast the insert iteration. Look to be set up like the ethics inserts with 20 grain breakaways. I could absolutely see this being a stronger system than the conventional screw in. Weak point would be carbon then I assume
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Finally settled in on an arrow.
600 grains with 250 up front.
A good bit lighter than I was after, but flight being paramount I can no beat them.
Got the vpa 2 blades/3 blades and bare shafts all hitting the same at 20 yards.
Seems time to finally order some grizzlies.
Hoping being similar in length to the 3 blade vpas that they do not show a drastically different tune.
 

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I had been shooting those Buzzcuts but then due to a friends recommendation I‘m shooting the $3 German jaeger 145g (ebay)

EDIT- they are up to $5/head now

I’ve shot about 8 animals with them and they are decent steel that stay sharp and perform great. These hold an edge as good as the magnus head.
.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I had been shooting those Buzzcuts but then due to a friends recommendation I‘m shooting the $3 German jaeger 145g (ebay)

I’ve shot about 8 animals with them and they are decent steel that stay sharp and perform great. These hold an edge as good as the magnus head.
.
Those look like the german kinetics. I really loved those heads… besides the price.
 

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The steel on those cheap GJ’s is pretty darn good. Not as good as the VPA’s and not nearly as good as the old Marcus made GK heads.…but they are $3 on ebay- incredible deal.

One thing Ive seen with BHs over the decades is thin replaceable blades and blades with a shallow angle just aren’t as good.

The head design of 2 1/2 or 3 to one helps a blade stay sharp through the animal by slipping in vs the plowing of shallow blade angled heads. Besides staying razor sharp through the animal, I get less animal reaction and animals usually dont know they were hit and die in sight.

The only disadvantage to 3 to one is they bend and roll points easier. Ive bent a couple of those 3 bl Trailmaker tips on hogs so I stopped using them. I think the 2 1/2 to one 2 blades Is perfect.
.
 
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I really like the grizzly bruins 150 gr. They have a tanto tip and don’t curl, mine didn’t on my Buffalo at least. Ordered a dozen and all spun true. A good head will be in my quiver elk hunting.

Chad
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Anyone try Outback broadheads ? I have not shot them at game yet but they fly well.
Look like a simmons met a grizzly.
Id have to shoot those off a rest with the blades coming back over the shaft. So wont work for my current set up. Dont look too bad though. May make for a weak point on the trailing edges
I did get the grizzlies in today.
I set up a few of my stones and got distracted with a new string for my bow.
Ill sit down and spend some time with them seeing as to the edge I can create tomorrow or wed. Pretty clean bevels. May just see what a softer jnat or 1k chosera will bring out. Dont look like they have burnt edges so a re profile is not in order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
After hand sharpening one with decent results I started to see the imperfections in the bevels. Having dealt with only 2 so far. Im seeing a trend in that in the middle of the head they dug in on both sides and also rounded out the tips.
Ill take better pics on the next head with sharpie.
good news thus far is the steel actually feels pretty hard. Gives me an excuse to break in this new 300 grit diamond plate.
Not that anyone cares much but Ill try and document the process halfway decent. Seems like the majority of Y’all have a good handle on sharpening heads. I feel pretty confident these heads will take a real nice edge.
Planning at the moment to match each bevel by eye and take it down til I have a clean apex for the entire length of the head with the 300. Roll the burr back from the non bevel side with an 800 venev. Pull edge through some oak to clean up any remnants then clean up scratch pattern on bevel with the venev. Then straight to the coticule/jnat or diamond emulsion on balsa or nanocloth. Havnt decided on that yet. Mirrored bevels prove difficult for me sometimes without degrading my actual edge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well. After rolling the burr back to bevel side it proved to be a little stubborn. Had to roll it back and forth a few times. Did do using back strokes on a bass wood block til I was able to pull the edge through and leave the burr.
After doing to I realized this sucker has a spectacular edge so I just ran it over balsa loaded w/ .5 micron diamond emulsion a couple swipes to finish. Never had an edge this crisp on a broadhead besides old school german kinetic. Im really happy even though I didnt get to run it through all my various stones.
 
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