arrows for 45# Falcon Special recurve

[rallen]

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Fellow archers,

I'm new to Trad talk. I've been shooting a 45# Mahaska longbow with Easton 2016's using 100-125 gr. field tips. Next week I'll be getting a 45# Falcon Special recurve. Can I shoot the same arrows or should I get something else? Don't want to go to wood shafts, yet.

Thanks and God bless you,

"Bow Minister"
Richard Allen :thankyou:

[Chip Cavin]

Richard, what is your draw length?

A 2016 with a 100-125 tip seems a bit overspined for a 45 pound bow, but go ahead and try the arrows that you have just to see. In aluminum, I bet a 1916 or even an 1816 would be better for a 45 pound bow.

I recommend buying only a couple of arrows at a time in a couple of different sizes. Try to find or put together various weights of fieldpoints to experiment with. I also recommend bareshaft tuning. Good luck.

Chip

[kawil]

Is your falcon coming from Chad at recurves.com?

Just found out that my Falcon is ready also (from Chad).
It is #48@28"

:highfive:

I plan to try some 2016 with 125grn points also. I will be drawing 28-29", so I have 30" arrows. I may even pick up a couple 2018's to try.

Lets compare notes in the near future here, with what we find, eh? also interested in where your brace ht works best for you.

Happy tuning!

k

[rallen]

Chip and Kawil,

thanks for the info! Kawil, yes, I'm getting my bow from Chad. He's a great guy. I'm going to meet him at the KY Classic, next month. I live 10 minutes from where it's being held.

All this "tuning" of bows and arrows is so new to me. I've gotten a couple of books (Asbel, Sorrell) and read the sections on tuning. I'm still going to have to get someone who knows what they're doing to show me the first time!

Chip, my length is right at 28".

"Bow Minister"
richard

[Heathen]

I have a 48@28" Falcon and a 45#@28" TD Hunter56 both shoot 1916's with 125gr points. The Falcon also shoots 1918's and 2016's about equally as well.

Jim

[Pinelander]

A big welcome to all you first time posters on the new software. Nice to have ya over here! :)

You're all definitely in the ballpark for spine. Richard, I believe the Falcon might be closer to center shot than the Mahaska (Kent makes a great bow, btw), which would tend to make me believe that if the 2016's were right-on with the Mahaska, they may need a bit lighter-weight point on the Falcon as they won't need to paradox as much as they did out of the Mahaska. Only a guess though, you won't know til you shoot your new "Special".

Jim, you got a Hunter-56? I had one of those last year, heck of a shooter and fast... those limbs really get 'er done being a 56" bow. I think I was getting around 180 fps with 50# and 500 gr. cedar. The Chek-Mates are often under-rated just because they don't cost an arm & a leg. :cool:

[Chip Cavin]

Richard,

I have found O.L.'s website to be most helpful with regard to tuning. Check it out. Look under "bow tuning".
http://www.bowmaker.net/

[rallen]

Chip,

I found that web site today. Just need someone around here to "walk me through it" a time or two. :sbrug:

[rallen]

Pinelander,

I have never tuned the 2016's. I just got them based on what I was told by other archers (who I know, know a LOT more than I do!). As for the Mahaska bow, yes it's a great bow. I've let other archers who shoot very well tell me that it's as as good as the higher priced longbows. I've been to two 3 D shoots here in KY, and others are always wanting to shoot it. Mine's just not very fancy, but it works for me. I agree with what you said about the Falcons, they may be cheaper in price, but I've been told that they shoot very well. That will work for me! :)

[Heathen]

A big welcome to all you first time posters on the new software. Nice to have ya over here! :)

You're all definitely in the ballpark for spine. Richard, I believe the Falcon might be closer to center shot than the Mahaska (Kent makes a great bow, btw), which would tend to make me believe that if the 2016's were right-on with the Mahaska, they may need a bit lighter-weight point on the Falcon as they won't need to paradox as much as they did out of the Mahaska. Only a guess though, you won't know til you shoot your new "Special".

Jim, you got a Hunter-56? I had one of those last year, heck of a shooter and fast... those limbs really get 'er done being a 56" bow. I think I was getting around 180 fps with 50# and 500 gr. cedar. The Chek-Mates are often under-rated just because they don't cost an arm & a leg. :cool:

Dave,

It's one of my four C-M's. I lked it so much I bought an extra set of limbs for it. They are a best buy IMHO.

:shooting:

Jim

[Viper]

rallen -

The Makasa is a pretty fast bow, and cut close to center, at least the ones I've seen are. probably why you're geeting away with 2016s. Not that is far off, certainly a contender, but 1916s would be more classic for that rig. Not too familiar with the Falcon, unless you mean the Chek-mate falcon???

Either 1916s or 2016s should be tune-able fot those rigs, I'd favor the 1916 though for the extra speed.

Chip - the 1816s are "possible", I've gone as high as #44 @ my 29" draw with them, that's what I'm using now with my OR, actually, but they are certainly at the weak end of the spectrum, and would go for the 1916s on more of a hunting rig.

Viper out.

[rallen]

Viper,

Yes, my Mahaska is cut pretty close to center, at least more than most longbows I've seen. Are the 1916's lighter than the 2016's? I didn't know if some arrows would be too light for the bow. I had started out with some Beeman carbon arrows but they seemed too light/stiff for the longbow.

Richard :confused:

[kawil]

rallen -

...Either 1916s or 2016s should be tune-able fot those rigs, I'd favor the 1916 though for the extra speed....

Viper out.

Hey Viper,

Ya think the 1916 is still worth a shot for a 48#@28" CM Falcon (drawing near 29) with FF string, or should I stick with 2016/2018?

Richard- Hope ya don't mind me squeezin in on your post here :o

k

[Grizzly]

RAllen, you will probably be fine with either 1916 or 2016.I did some of OL's bareshaft tuning with my 46# Big East drawn a little over 28". I got the best results with 2016's, but I noticed that when shooting 40 yards the 1916 seemed to fly best. Shot 3d with the 1916's and 125 gr points all season. When I started testing with broadheads on, the 2016 flew better, and the 2018 carried the broadhead very well also. I wound up using the 2018 for hunting, and a 125 Magnus II blew completely through the top of a nice buck's shoulder and into the ground. I was very happy that that arrow was flying "very straight", which is what that tuning chart is all about. Without referring to an Easton arrow chart, I'd guess that you gain approx 50 grains each time you move up: 1916,2016 and 2018. Tonight I straightened a bunch of 1916's one 2016 and no 2018's, a very tough arrow. :2cents:

[Chip Cavin]

Richard, there are plenty of people here that will help walk you through bow tuning.

You can start by taking the 2016s that you have and strip off the fletching from only one of the arrows. Shoot two or three fletched arrows into the target from about 15 yards. Then shoot the bareshaft. If the bareshaft groups with the other arrows then you are pretty close to the correct spine. If the bareshaft impacts to the left of the group then your arrows are overspined (if you are right-handed). If the bareshaft impacts to the right then your arrows are underspined (if you are right-handed). Use only field points for bareshaft tuning.