Question about quiet Back Quiver

[Torsten]

I finally got rid of my bow quiver and the noise involved + the bow got its balance back.

I have started to make a back quiver by myself. I certainly cannot compete with the beauty of quivers often pictured and do not need to.

1) how do you make sure that the arrow you return back finds the right spot. Even when you have a big bunch with you (>12)?

2) how do you keep that this quiver quiet when stalking?
The lower section seems easy to me. I have a new way to keep broadheads apart, sharp and quiet. Must first try it in field. Will report to you.

3) How do you make sure that the carbon arrows remain quiet.
I took soft leather and expect that when it is pressed flat by the back this might help but still have the problem now how to keep the arrows apart and still make sure the hand finds them - quickly-?

I do not want any snap-ons or clippers there. . This item needs to be taken care of but I do not want to invent solutions that you are using since a long time ago.

All help is highly appreciated

[Scooter]

Torsten, welcome abaord. Here is a link to hamemade catquiver style quiver. http://frugalarcher.tripod.com/Catqvr.html

I'm sold on this style quiver. Perhaps you can copy or adapt some of the ideas to your quiver.

Scooter

[BowDonkey]

Good to to see you here Torsten. The area I live in was settled mainly by the Finns. Still a few around ( old timers ) that have the accent. Anyway to answer your question or to confuse you more the old Instinctive Archery magazine had an article in the Fall 2001 issue called " A Quiver to Hunt With " by Scott Toll. Required reading in my book. His way of setting back quivers up is the best thought out of any article I read. That ain't saying much now that I think of it. One of the vendors over at TradGang has all the old Instinctive Archers on DVD. The author hunts the Pacific Northwest so he has in mind alot of wet weather. I've done a fair amount of hunting with a back quiver and overall it's a pain in the rear. I prefer a plains type that I modified. Much eaiser to get through the brush. If you're thinking about reaching back with a wad of arrows and dropping them in, the quiver will have to have a box type opening. Even then a few will go wayward and I've never been able to silence one to my satisfaction. Just use a single strap and rotate it under your arm and load them. Howard Hill pretty much had it figured out. Most of the guys here are old enough to have invented the back quiver maybe they'll chime in . :)

[Torsten]

Hello Scooter and BowDonkey,

thank you for your help.

I think in the broad sense I am not too far away from a preliminary version.

What I figured out today was to use a solid bottom, as you suggested but the improvemnent might be a (useable) broadhead bottom made of 1" cut off pieces of garden watering hose: the cut pieces keep mechanical and fixed warheads very well. You just popp the arrow down and they keep it at least in my small studio. That is why I need filed testing.

The tricky point is how to connect those hose pieces being flexible and reliable.

They keep (in studio) Muzzy, expanding heads...

When the weather is better I will go on a cross country trip.

Bow and pole problem with less than 4 hands not being settled yet...

Happy winter bow hunting for all of you,

Torsten

[Dudley]

I found that putting golf club tubes in my back quive really cuts the noise down. They're cheap and easy to cut. I glued mine together so they come out in two pieces--three tubes in each section. I also thought about gluing a few fethers inside each tube to suspend the arrow, since I use homemade broadhead covers, I don't have to worry about the feathers getting cut.

[Stagmitis]

Torsten,

Go to the american leathers site (John Schulz) as they have an excellent pictoral on Hill quivers. The article mentioned above is excellent as well.


The Hill style back quiver can hold many 2 blade broadhead or blunt type arrows and is the ultmate hunting machine if learned to be used appropriately.

The best leather is latigo and will last a lifetime. Unless a stiff enough leather is used it defeats one of the greatest assets of using a back quiver unless one wishes to wear one purely for show. Its the ability to reach around nock and quicky shoot multiple arrows without ever taking your eye of the target.

It takes me about a year to "break" one in properly. You can speed up this process using leather conditioners and repetedly massage and bend the leather. When done and the quiver has conformed to my body the arrows will stay secure and QUIET. I can run with it on and get in and out of the nastiest brush without any problems.

Stump Shooting:

Nothing better than a couple dozen Axis Shafts tipped with judos and wrapped 3/4 length with flourescent yellow and matching feathers.

It may change your mind on shooting twice(Or more) at the same spot! :shooting: :shooting: :shooting:

[BowDonkey]

Carbon arrows in a Hill quiver? That's sacrilage!

[the other DWS]

I like the idea of a base plug made up of a block of 1" hose sections. I'd glue'em to each other side by side with a form or tape around the outside. I have found a two-part adhesive for plastics that might work at the local Ace hardware. It comes in one of those self-proportioning syringes like many epoxies. I'll have to give it a try.

Currently my back quiver has a foam base block that I just shove the broadheads partway into. I use both 2 and 3 bladed heads. I have also pop-rivited a gripper for 8 arrows into the quiver about an inch or two below the fur collar. It holds the arrows well separated though getting unused arrows back into place is a bit awkward (I have a right shoulder that is a bit damaged that makes reaching up and back to drop an arrow back in difficult to start with.