Hoyt TD3 Limbs

[petew]

I found some hoyt 20" TD3 risers. There are around 50 of them available. All right hand.
Some are camo some painted various colors.

They can be obtained by contacting Jack Kempf in Edmonton Alberta.
His email is 'Jack Kempf'
E-mail Address(es):
jkempf@compusmart.ab.ca
He wants $30.00 US for them plus shipping.
Have fun with them.

Pete

[Pinelander]

Pete, I saw your post elsewhere about building a Warf. Have fun! And I look forward to reading your well-rounded (as always) review, good stuff.

You are talking about Hoyt TD-3 RISERS, not limbs... right?

[petew]

yes ,it is Risers that I located.Now I need to find a set of limbs to go with it.

[Pinelander]

Pete, I fixed the title of your thread to say risers.

I'm not familiar with the Hoyt TD-3 Riser. Are the limb beds configured with a somewhat standard pin/bolt hole configuration? Any pictures of the one you got from Jack?

Reason I ask... I have two different sets of Quinn limbs and also a set of Groves limbs. I'm curious if any of them might come close to fitting on this riser without a whole lot of hacking or drilling. There are (5) measurements that I would be interested in....

1. Limb pin hole to bolt hole center-center.
2. Distance from center of bolt hole to the butt end of limb bed.
3. Width of limb bed (tapered or straight).
4. Total length of limb bed.
5. Angle of limb bed.

[Bob Gordon]

Piney...Those little Hoyt risers are a good riser to put back as a recurve. They started out life as a recurve and then the later ones were modified a little by Hoyt and were used as early compound risers. It's not any way a bolt on for any recurve limbs that I know of. I have done a bunch for ILF type limbs and the pockets take a adapter plate to do it right. They also can be converted to ilf limbs by removing the ilf hardware and converting the limbs to a pin type bolt down but you will lose any weight adjustability. I don't know if Quinn limbs could be adapted but think it's possible with some rather brutal modifications to the limb butts to taper them and shorten them somewhat. If you go after any of those advertised risers make sure they come with the plastic grip, they are pretty hard to find as they haven't been made for some time, also make sure you get the limb bolts and aluminum bezels, those bezels can be spendy sometimes...As these are a pretty light weight riser and have no hollow spaces any additional weight has to be added to the outside of the riser, no room inside like on the Bear and later Hoyt risers...warf

[Pinelander]

HaHA.... guess I didn't fix the title of the thread, forum software doesn't allow for such things.

So the limb pockets are tapered, just like the pockets on Proline and Bear risers. Sounds like too much of a challenge for this all-thumber to do the hacking required to make things fit.

Ok, no empty void to fill with lead.... but a nice little 8" stabilizer to get some weight out front would work nicely. I noticed the Proline riser is somewhat light in mass weight (probably the same as the TD-3) and needs extra weight to act like a true Warf bow. Shot this bow without stabilizer on Friday, then added it on Saturday... what a huge difference in shooting accurancy. I think the weight out front helps me more than anything... lessens the torque variable I can't seem to get rid of yet.

[woodnbow]

I just finished my Kap carbon/TD3 conversion. I opted to convert the limbs to TD3 configuration using the hardware from my old limbs. It was pretty straightforward, replacing the ILF hardware and then deepening the slot on the limb butts by .10 or so. Also made a bushing using a piece of 2317 Aluminum shafting and some heat shrink tubing to get the stock limb bolts from 5/16" up to .359 which is pretty close to the dimensions of the slots on my limbs (about .370). As Bob Gordon says, it's not weight or tiller adjustable but it is rock solid. My Kaps were 44# and 66" on a 25" riser and come in at 50# on my TD3. Very nice shooting too, not quite as smooth as the original limbs which a couple inches longer and 3# heavier but they're as fast if not faster and very solid feeling at the shot.

BTW, Thanks Warf for laying the groundwork for all of us here. You've made all of this metal riser archery pretty easy for us, and my old hoyt is gonna be with me in the field again, Thanks,

Steve

Don't know if these pics will load Pinelander, but these are the limb butts and pockets on my TD3.

[Bob Gordon]

woodnbow...If you want to make the look better and more finished take a piece of hardwood and cut it so it fits inside the limb pocket on top of the limb. With newer ILF type limbs they ar thinner and set pretty deep in the pocket. If you make a nice piece of wood shaped to fit and drill a limb bolt hole thru it and shape it to match all the prifiles of the pocket it looks pretty good, give it a try. Oh yea...Most of those Hoyts had a pretty nasty camo paint, they can be improved a lot by a new, better camo job...warf

[woodnbow]

Would he? ;)

You're right though, it gets worse when you add metalflake silver limbs to that awful camo. I like the idea of the hardwood addition, this looks a bit weird the limbs sit so deep in the pocket. I'll look into that when I do get around to painting the bow. For now I'm just enjoying shooting the old girl, it has a new feel to it in the draw and at the shot. It really kicks the arrows out there, I'll need to chrony it and see what if any difference there is but just guessing I'd say I picked up a few feet per second at 3# less draw weight. Nice trade...

[beleg2]

Woodnbow,
Looking at the pictures, it looks like this riser already have ILF fitting, why do you use a boting sistem and loose regulation?
Thanks
Martin

[woodnbow]

The first set of pics is of the riser and the original limbs. There's a 1/4" thumbscrew where the ILF dovetailed fitting would be but yes otherwise they're very similar. Mostly I lock them down because this is a hunting bow and I want as near to bulletproof as I can get.

[twobows]

Hi Petew,
I used a T/D3 riser and some 58", 45#@25" limbs from a Fedora Backpacker T/D recurve ( no riser ) that I got in a trade years ago and took my time and made them fit, no pin just bike intertube on bottom and sides. WOW! super nice bow, came out 55#@28". Really caught hell from the boys about cutting up Fedora limbs, untill they shot it, then a big grin came on there face.
Take care, Brad

[Bulldog-RI]

I can vouch for Pete and Jack's risers!!

Hey Pete!! ;)

Pete and I are members of another forum,

I got some pics of his TD-3 risers.... Bob G says they will make great WARFER's

http://pic6.picturetrail.com/VOL170/1739272/5692559/132037588.jpg

Bulldog-RI

[Steve]

I emailed Jack and never got a responce.

Steve

[DRT]

same here .

[woodnbow]

So did I, finally called his number (It's on Petes website) and ordered a few risers. One more for me and a couple for the grandkids... :shooting:

[Gun]

After talking to Pete I picked one up today from Jack as he lives close to me. The majority of them are Hoyts but there is a few Pearson and PSE risers. He's been having trouble with his e-mail so you may want to call. He said that he had hoped to sell them all at once to save on postage. So he is now charging $35. Now I need to find out how to do this. Start reading I guess.

[petew]

I just heard from Jack and he is getting a lot of orders with US money orders. They need to be International money orders. or personal cheque.so he can cash them in Canada.