hove131
11-06-2011, 09:10 PM
I have always loved traditional archery. I have shot compounds as well as traditional for about twelve years now. I build custom compound strings as well as flemish and endless loop strings for longbows and recurves. So I like to think of my self as the hands on, self service type. I have always wanted to build my own trad bow and I finally jumped to it with this self bow build. I didn't want to cut a stave down and have to wait for it to dry out so I went with a board build.
So here is my 6 ft Hickory board. I went through about 50 boards trying to find one with a decent grain. This board was fairly good BUT was the only board that had a nice bend in the end. I will have to put a heat gun to it and straighten it back once I get the bow closer to the floor tiller/tiller stage.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg245/Hove131/IMG_20111103_180708.jpg
Here we are all sketched out. I'm going with a pyramid design at 60 " n2n. The widest part of the limbs at the fades are 2.5 ".
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg245/Hove131/IMG_20111103_182518-1.jpg
I wanted to mock up the riser and just throw it on because I like to get ahead of myself sometimes. I just wanted to see how it would look. This is a hickory riser as well with an oak accent stripe down the center.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg245/Hove131/IMAG0478.jpg
Next step was to glue up the riser block. I went with an 8" long riser for this bow to keep it just short of the fades to prevent a possible hot handle from popping off.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg245/Hove131/IMAG0481.jpg
Now to the fun part. Filing down the limbs to the correct thickness. I used mostly a rasp and a stainless steel cabinet scraper (piece of stainless.) I have the limbs marked at 5/8" thick on each limb and I'm about 3/4 of the way there. I'm thinking I may have to go closer to a 1/2 " dues to the shortness of the bow so I can get it closer to bending for floor tillering.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg245/Hove131/IMAG0482.jpg
Before calling it a night I glued on the riser.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg245/Hove131/IMAG0487.jpg
I have been working on this bow for a few days now on and off. I will keep you updated on the build as I progress.
So here is my 6 ft Hickory board. I went through about 50 boards trying to find one with a decent grain. This board was fairly good BUT was the only board that had a nice bend in the end. I will have to put a heat gun to it and straighten it back once I get the bow closer to the floor tiller/tiller stage.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg245/Hove131/IMG_20111103_180708.jpg
Here we are all sketched out. I'm going with a pyramid design at 60 " n2n. The widest part of the limbs at the fades are 2.5 ".
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg245/Hove131/IMG_20111103_182518-1.jpg
I wanted to mock up the riser and just throw it on because I like to get ahead of myself sometimes. I just wanted to see how it would look. This is a hickory riser as well with an oak accent stripe down the center.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg245/Hove131/IMAG0478.jpg
Next step was to glue up the riser block. I went with an 8" long riser for this bow to keep it just short of the fades to prevent a possible hot handle from popping off.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg245/Hove131/IMAG0481.jpg
Now to the fun part. Filing down the limbs to the correct thickness. I used mostly a rasp and a stainless steel cabinet scraper (piece of stainless.) I have the limbs marked at 5/8" thick on each limb and I'm about 3/4 of the way there. I'm thinking I may have to go closer to a 1/2 " dues to the shortness of the bow so I can get it closer to bending for floor tillering.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg245/Hove131/IMAG0482.jpg
Before calling it a night I glued on the riser.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg245/Hove131/IMAG0487.jpg
I have been working on this bow for a few days now on and off. I will keep you updated on the build as I progress.