View Full Version : anodising alloy risers
mick uk
12-19-2005, 10:06 AM
Can anyone tell me if the hoyt gamemaster riser will take anodising.
Cheers mick uk :inst
thisbucks4u
12-19-2005, 10:28 AM
I dont think it will. Thats is goin off the premise that most cast alluminum products cant be annodized because of the high silica content needed for proper casting characteristics.
Mick,
I would say that you might be able to, but it may not come out the way you want. It depends on the casting allow used, quality of the casting etc. I would generally advise against it. You may strip the finish off only to find many areas filled with bondo. Those would have to be removed and of course the finish would be ruined. The anodizing process could also cause pitting as the chemicals eat crawdad holes into the soft parts of the casting. Your best bet for refinishing is a low temperature painting process, like a good quality auto paint, or Duracoat from Lauer Custom Weaponry. Some solvents in auto paint may dissolve the camo finish though. It will need to be sanded and primed with a good sealer to keep the camo from bleeding through. I would let a professional do it. The Duracoat is a low solvent product that is very forgiving. It is only available in matte and satin colors though, and requires spray equipment to apply.
Bob Gordon
12-19-2005, 11:15 AM
DAS is right on, I have removed the paint, powdercoat or epoxy from a lot of older cast compound risers and when it's all removed some look like the surface of the moon with lots of pits, craters, and casting goobers. Also many are filled with body putty. That's why they have a heavy powdercoat or rough non gloss finish when new, it is to hide pits, grinder marks etc. Machined risers atre another story, they all look pretty good except for a few scratches, file marks, etc. Paint and body putty are the way to go on cast aluminum risers...warf
mick uk
12-19-2005, 02:19 PM
Thanks for your advise.
mick uk :inst
James H.
12-21-2005, 05:13 PM
You may also go to www.tarjac.com they can do alot of dif. finishes from camo to wood pattern, but it will prob. run almost $100 bucks for a riser and limbs.
Feral Donkey,
I've used that product and you are right, it is very good. The Duracoat is just as good though and a lot more user friendly because it does nor require heat to cure. A plus for the baking lacquer is that it comes in an aerosol can. You need an airbrush or touch-up gun to spray the Duracoat. Another note: I've used the little PreVail dispoable sprayers with very good results with thinned auto paints, but it doesn't work so well with Duracoat. I think it is because the stuff has such a high solids content.
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