Warf bow?

[beleg2]

Hi,
Anybody knows fron which compound came this riser?

http://tradtalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1217&stc=1
http://tradtalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1216&stc=1

I get this riser but the seller that don’t know, he thinks was a PSE but he don’t know witch model. He told me that it was a little reflex but it is a little deflex. So….

Beg your pardon Bob, against your advise I bought it (the seller promise that I can return it if I don’t like it). Geometry of the pockets looks good but the centre of the riser is above the handle. (Between the hand and the rest). It is a kind of modern Kyudo bow.

I take out ILF fitting of my KAP limbs put then on the riser and shoot some bare shaft over the self. Sorprise! they flight straight with 0 tiller.

Now my second question, There is any problem shooting the limbs without ILF fitting (only the hole) ?

Last one: how many # can I get from a 20” riser with 36# limbs? I get 41# from my set up, Can I get more without stressing my limbs?. I would like something like 44-45 lbs

Thank you very much, this forum is great!

Martín

[Bob Gordon]

Martin...Geometry doesn't look to bad. Do you have the limbs bottomed out in the riser? You have to have something to keep the limbs from slipping from side to side, if they fit tight in the limb pocket and the string runs down the center of the limbs it will work but you must have something to keep the limbs in the riser when unstrung or if a string breaks. If the riser has a solid floor to the pocket you can thread it under the hole for a 1/4" fine thread alan bolt and shim the bolt to the 3/8" size of the ILF hole, you won't have any weight adjustment as the limbs would be bolted down solid but it would hold the limbs in, also use a big washer or compound bezel with the bolt. Depending on your draw length you might be able to get a couple more lbs out of the limbs but don't go nuts trying to crank the weight much higher than that. Also, brace height looks a little low, try raising it up to make the limbs sound and perform better....warf

[beleg2]

Bob,
No, limbs are not bottomed out.
I have put some hard rubber shims on both sides of the limbs to keep then centered.
I have take ILF fitting out only to confirm that it would work before I change anything on the rider (so I can return it to the seller).
This pictures was taken with a string too long for this bow (the only one I had),. Now I string it with a shorter one and looks OK.

My concern is: Can this riser works as it is asymmetric?, the lower haft is ½” shorter than the upper half.

Today I will stick a Hoyt rest and try some bare shaft, If all works right I will make some kind of ILF fitting. I wish we lived closer so I would get one of your famous risers!

Thanks
Martin

[Esquire]

Beleg,

I could send a Warf riser home with my brother. That would get it to Montivideo. Would that help?

Mi padre y madre están viajando para visitar a mi hermano para una visita extendida a Uruguay en alrededor de un mes o tan. Hago que una canalización vertical sea hecha por algún otro que podría enviarle, o Bob podría enviar uno a mí y podría enviarlelo encendido. ¿Eso le interesaría?

Mike

[thisbucks4u]

That riser is from a PSE SD 2000 I think. Any ways Ive converted a few of them. the limb angles are a little steep, but its should work out fine.
It makes for a very stable recurve and my personal favorite is made on this riser, BOHO also has one I made for him and he loves it as well. Its a keeper to be sure depending on what the price is.
If you need a grip for it I might be able to come up with one as well. let me know.

[Scooter]

With the grip being below center I would think you would end up with a pretty unique tiller. Negative maybe? The lower you grip the more you should work the lower limb and thus have to weaken it. It works on a compound because it can be accounted for in the cam cycle. Just my $0.02

[thisbucks4u]

HONEST- IT WORKS OUT FINE AS A CONVERTIBLE RISER. Dont brain hump it too much, and it usually works out well in the end.

[beleg2]

Esquire,
thank you very much for your offer. I have send you a PM.
Thisbucks4u,
Thanks for the info. What do you mean with “the limb angles are a little steep”, I find that limb angles are almost OK, but put a supplement to reduce deflex angle, and get some more pounds.
Do you have any problem with tiller as Scooter point?
I have the original grip but take it out to get my hand a little higher.
Thanks
Martin

[beleg2]

Anyone knows where to find a picture of PSE SD 2000, I cannot find it on Google.
Thanks again
Martin

[thisbucks4u]

If I remember correctly the angles will measure out at 21.5 degrees. Optimum is 12. What ends up happening is you cross the line between getting the grip infront of the fadeouts Vs. performance. And also as Bob pointed out to get the string off the limb tips you need a wider than normal brace height. This can be a moot point because even "wrong" it still makes for a wonderful shooting bow. Just a little on the slow side. What I did with mine was to machine the riser to a standard 12 degrees (a little steeper on Bohos to accomodate his 32 inch draw) and went with limb pads to get a lot more performance out of it. How much performance? Over 200 fps with 10 gpp and alot more speed with the correct arrow weight.

I also didnt like the grip that came on it and removed the upper half and smoothed it out to get a much higher grip angle. The grip is next door at work and its raining out, so Ill throw up a picture tommorrow if I can remember to.
There used to be pictures of it on the warfin wall, but I dont know what happened to them.

[beleg2]

thisbucks4u,

Thanks for the information,
I will change limb boxs for others to change angle to 16-17º. I think it would work.
How much pound you gain over whats print on limbs?
I would like to see the grip you adapt.
Thanks
Martin