Getting that razor edge on knives and broadheads

[Papabull]

I'm going to be putting together a very in-depth article on knives, broadheads, sharpening and a steel F.A.Q. I might tackle it a little at a time. But meanwhile, I thought I'd share one of the tips I'm going to list with you guys.

Lots of guys strop their broadheads and knives. It's somewhat effective and I'll be putting some really good tips in there about that... but there are other ways to accomplish this that some may find a lot easier and one I've never heard mentioned is to simply buy a razor hone. They're usually about 5" X 2", which is a great size to work with. They can often be found on Ebay for about $10.00 and those vintage barber hones put an edge on steel that's a level of sharpness most people don't even know exists - and they're made to do that with steel that's harder than anything we use for hunting.

The grits are very, very fine so they're most suitable for edges we've already sharpened to what most folks call "hair popping sharp". Using one to restore a bevel is something to do only if you've got a whole lot of time on your hands. But using them on a blade that we think is "hair popping sharp" will ratchet up the degree of sharpness significantly and do it much more effectively than just stropping.

After using a barber hone, there's no need to strop the blade unless you actually want to get a close and comfortable shave - and without the right bevel (about 16 degrees), that kind of sharp won't happen, anyway.

[Bill Carlsen]

...I've ever used are the Razor Edge guides...for knives and bh's. Their web site is www.razoredgesystems.com. You can use the sharpening jigs with any two blade bh on any stone you wish to use. :2cents:

[Papabull]

I've checked out the Razor's edge products before. They look like they're pretty effective. I've hand-honed my whole life and, as a result of countless hours of honing and sharpening have come to prefer the flexibility of hand honing, but for those that aren't very experienced with it, it's a real challenge. I didn't realize how tough hand-honing can be for people until I started trying to teach people how to do it. Much of what I take for granted is a complete mystery to novices. Guided honing systems are by far the best method for a lot of people. I love working with steel, sharpening and honing and just enjoy doing it by hand like I started out doing when I was about 12.

If that system works with any stone, you'll have to check out the Spyderco ceramic hones that are one of my top picks. I'll go into some detail on them in the article. I've never used anything that produces such a keen edge with the kind of ease those benchstones do. I'm going to start stocking them in the store next time I place an order. Dave Sosa got a set from me and he seems to like his as much as I like mine. :)

The ultra-fine ceramic stone puts an edge on my straight razors that's so fine it cuts free-standing/hanging hair with ease. With a straight razor, you can't really get a great comfortable shave until you've got it cutting free standing hair without even pulling or popping it. They just get lopped off like trimming the top of a hedge with a good electric hedge clipper.

[Bill Carlsen]

Getting blades sharp is very important to me but I have a lot of difficulty doing it without some sort of guide and I have been using the Razor Edge products since they came out in the 60's, I believe. Combined with DMT diamond hones and a leather strop on a wooden block I can get edges that I can literally shave with. So...I am looking foward to your imput in this matter. I would truly like to be able to sharpen free hand but it has been a dead end street for me. I can get a real nice burr edge using a file but I really think that the honed razor edge is superior on a bh. I am always open to learning new skills. :)

[Troy]

Been using the spyderco system for 5 or 6 years now. Very pleased with the results. Especially the time saved over the old fashioned method, which I wasn't exceptional at doing.

I just wish it could be adjusted for angle. Some knives have a few degrees different slope.

I quit doing anything on broadheads except filing them. Wouldn't want to try and shave with it though... It'd be like using a cheese shredder :)

The deer I arrowed 2 years ago was with a shaving sharp hollow ground broadhead. I'll compare results when I shoot the next one to know for sure how the filed edge fares, but I know that blade wasn't anywhere near razor sharp after going through the deer. It felt like it had hit my sand pile several times. I haven't experimented much with it, but the filed edge seems to hold up better to the abuses of a sand pile. Flesh and bone ain't the same as sand.

Other people's input greatly appreciated...

[Papabull]

Troy, I can get the Spyderco Bench stones in both Medium and fine (really NICE stones) at 8" x 2" for only $30.00 each. I don't care for the "systems" for the very reason you mentioned. I like to have control over the bevel - a bevel that's perfect for one steel/task/blade type can be far from ideal for another.

Besides, the versatility of the bench stones has allowed me to replace a whole pile of other stuff from waterstones to diamond hones and I use them for everything from kitchen knives and scissors to hunting knives and broadheads.

[Bill Carlsen]

My best hunting buddy likes to file sharpen and he does well. A doctor I used to hunt with preferred file sharpening, as well. I still prefer the razor sharp edge. Both are effective. :)

[BOWDOG]

I purchased a set of shapening wheel that fit on my bench grinder from a company named FREZELL'S Razorsharp at the advice of Gene Wenzel in 1989.It has one grit wheel & one leather wheel with jewelers rouge. I can free hand any two blade head to hair-flying sharpness in about one minute each. I keep a dozen sharp at a time so I dont have to re-sharpen in the field.

[Cato]

Bowdog is right about his results. His broadheads are really really sharp.

In the last few years, I've primarily shot three blades. Some of them do not come with an angle that is suitable for putting on a flat file. Is it better to reset the angle? I know is has something to do with the durability of the edge, but I really don't know a whole lot about it.

Me, I've never been able to keep a consistent angle for a two blade, and had trouble getting to that scary sharp stage. I'm looking forward to the article Bull.

Cato

[the other DWS]

Robert, I'm looking forward to your article.
I've been hand sharpening stuff all my life too, to me its almost instinctive---oops did I really say that---no its a learned skill that takes a lot of time and practice to judge and hold a consistant blade angle particularly with a curved and tapered blade. Good handeye coordination is important as access to a box of bandaids while on the leanring curve. Unless one is willing to do the work to learn and has a bit of physical aptitude, the jigs are a real help

I use a bunch of graded DMT hones for preliminary work, and their fine grade leaves an excellent compromise for broadheads--for good knives and razors one has to go a couple more steps, including a black hard Arkansas Razor hone which is darn near like polished agate. There is a real degree of satisfaction in getting that untimate razor edge----like to old non-PC joke says--"jus' try toin'n ya head"

I personally feel that sharpening an arrow head beyond the DMT-fine point is a waste of time. The KE driving an arrow point doen't require the degree of sharpess a shavinng razor does it will also yield an edge the won't turn on bone or a bit of mud and grit on the hide. but then we all have our personal tastes in that area. I also like and use the old gold-colored Satellite Archery Ti-nitride coated 125 grain titans,they are about the sharpest factory blades I've ever evaluated. I've never had to resharpen one yet.
At one time someone made a rig that had two adjustable angled diamond hones especially for arrow heads. It is adjustable for gap between the two sections and the angles of the abrasive surfaces. I've worn out 2 sets of the honing pads on mine and wish I could find another rig like it.

the other DWS

[Bill Carlsen]

...DMT makes the rig you are talking about. I have one still new in the box. Email me if you are interested. It is red, which I think is the fine grit. :)

[Papabull]

DWS, if you like the dmt diamond hones, you'll flat out love the Spyderco Ceramic Benchstones. Trust me when I say that the "fine" ceramic hone will put an extroardinarly keen edge on blades - better than Black or even the transluscent Arkansas. And the super-fine? It leaves a finer cutting edge than most of my razor hones. There are a few other tricks I've got up my sleeve I'll be discussing, too. ;) I'll definitely be mentioning the E-Z Lap and DMT hones among others, but I do have what I think will be nice surprises and new information for most everyone including how to restore stained or rusted high carbon steel blades.

[Cato]

One of our local vets, a friend of Bowdog's, contends that when he has a brand new scappel, the animal bleeds profusely. After a couple of uses, while still what we would call razor sharp or close to it, the bleeding is no longer as substantial. This guy is a very accomplished and experieced bowhunter as well, and he insists on a razor scary sharp head for the aforesaid reasons.

[DAS]

Cato,

You are absolutely right. No substitute for that fine edge!

The Spyderco bench stones are the best I've ever used and I've just about used akk of them. Top grade arkansas, japanese water stones, diamond stones, ceramic, even old razor hones. Nothing beats the Spyderco IMO. I ordered a complete set from Robert and I cleaned out all the other stuff!

[Bill Carlsen]

I just ordered a Spyderco from PB. I'l be sure to let you know what I think of it. If Dave says so, it must be so...he's been right on target with me so far. If it is as good as it sounds it has to be the most important piece of my hunting equipment (after my bow).

[the other DWS]

Well, shucky darn!!!!! first the DASbow makes most of my "using" bows redundant, now it looks like this new Spyderco sharpening system will do the same for all the stones and hones I've accumlated over the past 30 yars ood more. Wonder if they'll be shaped right for tuning actions and polishing sears?

[Woodduck]

How many sizes do the Spidercos come in?

[huntinnut]

Great thread.

Thanks to Papa Bull from one that cannot sharpen anything, by any method, in any amount of time, no matter what.

[Papabull]

The 4" ProFile sticks are my favorites for the field because they weigh very close to nothing, fit in any pocket, nook or cranny and will sharpen anything from needles to axes and do a great (but painstaking) job on serrated edges, too.

The 8" ProFiles I can get all I want now and they're an inexpensive and super set of sticks for all-purpose sharpening. They come in a set of medium and fine. The ultra-fine is pretty much a waste of good money for anyone who isn't going to actually shave with whatever it is they're sharpening.

My overall favorites are the 8 inch bench stones in medium and fine. They make short work out of a sharpening job, I'll say that. By the way..... I've got one heck of a tip coming for guys who are "sharpening challenged". I'll see if I can get finished up with the entire article today.

I'm also going to put in a full line of the Spyderco Stones and DMT hones in the store. As much as I love the Spyderco stones, the DMT hones are coarser and super-fast cutting, so they're invaluable to have around for restoring bevels and, essentially hand-grinding,

[Papabull]

Well, I've got most of the pictures taken, have outlined the article and hope to have time tomorrow to get it all together. And if there's anything in particular that you would find to be of special interest, let me know and I'll make sure to cover it if it's within my scope of experience.